Tourism
Black Expats in Ghana: A New Wave of Diaspora Migration Is Shaping Lives
Ghana’s rise as a preferred destination for African diasporans continues to reshape both its tourism landscape and its global reputation.
A decade after the country launched the landmark “Year of Return” in 2019—a campaign inviting people of African descent to reconnect with their ancestral homeland—Ghana is still experiencing a steady influx of Black expats seeking healing, purpose, and a slower, more grounded way of life.
Reports say an estimated 1,500 Black Americans have relocated since 2020. And in late 2024, the government granted Ghanaian citizenship to more than 500 members of the diaspora, cementing the country’s role as a continental gateway for cultural reconnection.
For many, the draw goes beyond tourism. It’s a quest for belonging.
A New Life Through Food—and Citizenship
When Deijha Gordon left New York City in 2019, burnout had already taken a toll. The post office worker was longing for a change when a 2015 trip to Ghana opened her eyes to a different rhythm of life.
“When I first stepped off the plane, I was amazed by the welcoming atmosphere and culture,” she recalled.
Five years after immigration, Gordon—now a Ghanaian citizen—owns Deijha Vu’s Jerk Hut, a Jamaican food truck that has become a favorite among both locals and tourists. But the journey wasn’t easy. She poured her savings into building a restaurant before the pandemic stalled her progress. When the business faltered, she “had to go back to the drawing board,” ultimately restarting her dream with a food truck.
That decision changed everything. A surprise visit from celebrities including influencer Jessie Woo propelled her business forward—and today she’s planning to franchise, with potential expansion into Nigeria.
Gordon says Ghana forced her to unlearn the “constant pressure to have it all figured out.” What replaced it was a calmer, more communal lifestyle. “In Ghana, people want to help you, even with the little things. I had to learn to accept that.”
Healing in a Place Where “the Weight Falls Off”
For illustrator Nicole Updegraff, Ghana was less a fresh start and more a profound emotional reset. She moved to Accra in 2015 with her family after her husband took a U.S. Embassy assignment—and what she found fundamentally reshaped her understanding of freedom.
“When you grow up in the U.S., there is an armor you have to put on as a Black person,” she said. “Those feelings were gone in Ghana.”
Her years in Accra coincided with nationwide protests in the United States over the police killings of Michael Brown, Philando Castile, Tamir Rice, and others. Watching the news from Ghana, she felt the magnitude of the contrast:
“Being there was more than relief; it was safety.”
Life wasn’t without its challenges—power outages, mosquito nets gone rogue, or adjusting to local rhythms—but she says the community made the transition bearable. A nanny, housekeeper, and gardener became “lifelines” who held her family together. “They became our family.”
Updegraff now lives back in the U.S., but says Ghana imprinted something permanent: “Ghana anchored me as a Black American. It made me feel like I always had a place to go home.”
Ghana as a Tourism and Cultural Haven
As tourism continues to rebound globally, Ghana stands out—not for luxury resorts or tropical beaches alone, but for its cultural gravity. For travelers of African descent seeking reconnection, the country offers more than sightseeing. It offers grounding.
Visitors today can explore everything from bustling markets in Accra to the somber historical sites along the Cape Coast. But increasingly, the country is attracting people interested in long-term stays, community, entrepreneurship, and spiritual restoration.
Advice for Would-Be Movers
Both expats share similar wisdom:
- Visit first—walk the markets, talk to locals, learn how the city hums.
- Manage expectations—Ghana is growing, evolving, and wonderfully imperfect.
- Be open-minded—especially if you’re coming from Western fast-paced cultures.
- Let go of hyper-independence—community support is woven into daily life.
“Don’t compare it to the places you’ve been,” Updegraff stressed. “That can be a recipe for disappointment.”
A New Kind of Homecoming
A decade after the Year of Return, Ghana’s call to the African diaspora remains strong. For some, the journey offers peace. For others, opportunity. And for many more, it offers the one thing they didn’t realize they were missing: a place that feels like home.
As Gordon put it, “I am not the same person I was a few years ago. Ghana changed my life tremendously.”
For the growing number of Black expats making the move—or dreaming of one—Ghana continues to promise not just travel, but transformation.
Editor’s note: This story has been culled from an article published on Travel Noire. Read the original article here.
Tourism
5 Things You Need to Know About Ghana’s Visa-Free Entry for All Africans
Ghana is set to become the fifth country in Africa to grant visa-free access to all African passport holders.
The landmark policy, announced by President John Mahama, will take effect on May 25, 2026 — coinciding with Africa Day celebrations.
Here is everything you need to know about the historic shift.
1. The Policy Takes Effect on Africa Day, May 25
President John Mahama announced the new visa-free regime during the first state visit of Zimbabwean President Emmerson Mnangagwa to Ghana, according to Foreign Affairs Minister Sam Okudzeto Ablakwa.
The policy will officially come into force on May 25 — a symbolic date chosen to align with Africa Day, the annual commemoration of the founding of the Organization of African Unity (now the African Union).
2. Ghana Becomes the 5th African Country to Offer Visa-Free Access to All Africans
With this move, Ghana joins a small but growing group of African nations that already allow visa-free entry to all African nationals. The other four countries are:
- Benin
- The Gambia
- Rwanda
- Seychelles
Ghana is now the fifth country on the continent to adopt such a policy, marking a significant shift in its travel and immigration framework.
3. The Policy Builds on a 2025 Promise That Did Not Materialize
The visa-free initiative was originally introduced under former President Nana Akufo-Addo, who announced visa-free travel for all African passport holders in his final State of the Nation Address in January 2025.
However, the measure — initially expected to take effect in 2025 — did not materialise as planned before the end of his tenure. The Mahama administration has now implemented the policy.
4. It Will Be Linked to a Broader E-Visa Rollout Next Month
The visa-free regime will not stand alone. It forms part of a broader reform of Ghana’s immigration system, including the introduction of a new e-visa platform expected to launch next month.
Authorities say the system is designed to streamline entry processes while maintaining border controls. The visa-free regime will form part of this broader e-visa system set to be launched by the Mahama administration next month, according to Foreign Affairs Minister Ablakwa.
5. The Policy Aims to Boost Tourism, Trade, and Pan-Africanism
Ablakwa noted that the policy is aimed at reinforcing Ghana’s position as the cradle of Pan-Africanism, while unlocking gains in tourism and intra-African trade through the reform.
The introduction of visa-free entry for all Africans is expected to support increased mobility across the continent, with potential implications for tourism, business travel, and regional integration. The move aligns with broader continental efforts to ease movement under frameworks such as the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA).
Bonus: Ghana Is Also Expanding Travel Access for Its Own Citizens
Ghana’s government has also been expanding travel access for its own citizens. The Foreign Ministry said 23 visa waiver agreements have been negotiated for Ghanaian passport holders since last year.
Summary Box:
| Policy | Visa-free entry for all African passport holders |
|---|---|
| Effective date | May 25 (Africa Day) |
| Announced by | President John Mahama |
| Number of African countries with similar policy | 5 (Benin, Gambia, Rwanda, Seychelles, Ghana) |
| Linked reform | New e-visa platform launching next month |
| Key goals | Pan-Africanism, tourism, intra-African trade, AfCFTA alignment |
Taste GH
Kelewele and Groundnuts: Ghana’s Spicy-Sweet Street Snack Everyone Loves
The scent arrives before the snack itself—warm ginger, pepper, and caramelized plantain drifting through the evening air in Accra. Follow that irresistible aroma and you’ll likely find a small street stall serving one of Ghana’s most beloved bites: kelewele with fried groundnuts.
Kelewele begins with ripe plantains cut into small cubes and tossed in a lively blend of spices—usually ginger, garlic, pepper, and a hint of salt.
Once lowered into hot oil, the plantain turns golden and crisp at the edges while remaining soft and sweet inside. The result is a snack that balances heat, sweetness, and smoky richness in a single mouthful.
But kelewele rarely travels alone. A handful of crunchy fried groundnuts—peanuts roasted until fragrant—often accompanies the dish.
Their nutty bite complements the spiced plantain perfectly, adding texture and depth to every serving. Locals know the rhythm well: a toothpick in hand, a paper wrap of kelewele in the other, and laughter shared with friends on a warm night.
Across Ghana, kelewele vendors appear as evening falls. Outside busy markets, near roadside corners, or beside lively bus stops, small frying pans sizzle under the glow of streetlights.
Office workers stop by on their way home, students gather after lectures, and late-night travelers grab a portion before continuing their journey.
For visitors, tasting kelewele is an introduction to Ghana’s vibrant street food culture—simple ingredients transformed into something memorable. For Ghanaians, it’s comfort food wrapped in nostalgia, a snack that carries the flavors of home.
@chefabbys KELEWELE might just be Ghana's best Street Food🇬🇭✨! We need to position it and give it even more credit ! It's easy , fast, extremely delicious to make. I made this in bulk hence the quantity of the spices All you need is Pepper Ginger Onion Red chillies Hwentia Cloves Calabash nutmeg EFOM WISA (alligator pepper ) Oil #FoodTiktok #fyp #foryou #virall ♬ With You (feat. Omah Lay) – Davido
Whether enjoyed after sunset or as a quick bite during a city stroll, kelewele and fried groundnuts remain a delicious symbol of Ghana’s everyday culinary magic.
Sights and Sounds
Art and Energy in Accra: From Museum Masterpieces to Makola Market Buzz
The morning light over Accra falls softly across the stately grounds of the National Museum of Ghana. A few schoolchildren chatter beneath the trees, their voices echoing faintly against the museum’s pale walls.
Inside, quiet halls hold centuries of Ghanaian creativity—wooden sculptures carved with patient skill, bold textiles alive with color, and masks whose expressions seem to carry stories from generations past.
It’s the kind of place where time slows, inviting visitors to look more closely and listen to the country’s cultural heartbeat.
Step through the galleries and Ghana’s artistic journey unfolds. Intricately carved stools, ceremonial regalia, and traditional instruments reveal how art has long been woven into daily life. Sunlight filters through high windows, glancing off brass ornaments and beads once worn by royalty.
Visitors wander from display to display, pausing to study the details—symbols etched into wood, patterns stitched into cloth, fragments of history preserved with care. The museum feels calm and reflective, a welcome pause from the city’s busy rhythm.
But just a short drive away, the tempo changes entirely.
At Makola Market the air vibrates with movement. Traders call out prices over the hum of conversation.
Fabrics ripple in bright cascades of orange, turquoise, and deep indigo. The scent of smoked fish drifts through narrow lanes while baskets overflow with fresh peppers, tomatoes, and ginger. Here, Accra shows its everyday energy.
Visitors quickly realize Makola is more than a place to shop—it’s a living theater of commerce and community.
Women balance bowls of goods with remarkable grace, bargaining unfolds with good-natured laughter, and every stall offers something different: handmade sandals, woven baskets, shimmering jewelry, and neatly folded wax prints waiting to become tomorrow’s outfit. The colors alone can keep you wandering for hours.
Together, the museum and Makola Market capture two sides of Ghana’s story. One preserves heritage in quiet halls; the other keeps culture alive in the open air, vibrant and unscripted.
Experiencing both in a single day gives travelers a fuller sense of the city—its creativity, its resilience, and its warmth.
Leave Makola in the late afternoon and the sounds of the market linger in your ears: laughter, bargaining, music from a passing radio.
It’s a reminder that in Accra, culture isn’t just displayed behind glass—it’s happening all around you.
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