Tourism
Black Expats in Ghana: A New Wave of Diaspora Migration Is Shaping Lives
Ghana’s rise as a preferred destination for African diasporans continues to reshape both its tourism landscape and its global reputation.
A decade after the country launched the landmark “Year of Return” in 2019—a campaign inviting people of African descent to reconnect with their ancestral homeland—Ghana is still experiencing a steady influx of Black expats seeking healing, purpose, and a slower, more grounded way of life.
Reports say an estimated 1,500 Black Americans have relocated since 2020. And in late 2024, the government granted Ghanaian citizenship to more than 500 members of the diaspora, cementing the country’s role as a continental gateway for cultural reconnection.
For many, the draw goes beyond tourism. It’s a quest for belonging.
A New Life Through Food—and Citizenship
When Deijha Gordon left New York City in 2019, burnout had already taken a toll. The post office worker was longing for a change when a 2015 trip to Ghana opened her eyes to a different rhythm of life.
“When I first stepped off the plane, I was amazed by the welcoming atmosphere and culture,” she recalled.
Five years after immigration, Gordon—now a Ghanaian citizen—owns Deijha Vu’s Jerk Hut, a Jamaican food truck that has become a favorite among both locals and tourists. But the journey wasn’t easy. She poured her savings into building a restaurant before the pandemic stalled her progress. When the business faltered, she “had to go back to the drawing board,” ultimately restarting her dream with a food truck.
That decision changed everything. A surprise visit from celebrities including influencer Jessie Woo propelled her business forward—and today she’s planning to franchise, with potential expansion into Nigeria.
Gordon says Ghana forced her to unlearn the “constant pressure to have it all figured out.” What replaced it was a calmer, more communal lifestyle. “In Ghana, people want to help you, even with the little things. I had to learn to accept that.”
Healing in a Place Where “the Weight Falls Off”
For illustrator Nicole Updegraff, Ghana was less a fresh start and more a profound emotional reset. She moved to Accra in 2015 with her family after her husband took a U.S. Embassy assignment—and what she found fundamentally reshaped her understanding of freedom.
“When you grow up in the U.S., there is an armor you have to put on as a Black person,” she said. “Those feelings were gone in Ghana.”
Her years in Accra coincided with nationwide protests in the United States over the police killings of Michael Brown, Philando Castile, Tamir Rice, and others. Watching the news from Ghana, she felt the magnitude of the contrast:
“Being there was more than relief; it was safety.”
Life wasn’t without its challenges—power outages, mosquito nets gone rogue, or adjusting to local rhythms—but she says the community made the transition bearable. A nanny, housekeeper, and gardener became “lifelines” who held her family together. “They became our family.”
Updegraff now lives back in the U.S., but says Ghana imprinted something permanent: “Ghana anchored me as a Black American. It made me feel like I always had a place to go home.”
Ghana as a Tourism and Cultural Haven
As tourism continues to rebound globally, Ghana stands out—not for luxury resorts or tropical beaches alone, but for its cultural gravity. For travelers of African descent seeking reconnection, the country offers more than sightseeing. It offers grounding.
Visitors today can explore everything from bustling markets in Accra to the somber historical sites along the Cape Coast. But increasingly, the country is attracting people interested in long-term stays, community, entrepreneurship, and spiritual restoration.
Advice for Would-Be Movers
Both expats share similar wisdom:
- Visit first—walk the markets, talk to locals, learn how the city hums.
- Manage expectations—Ghana is growing, evolving, and wonderfully imperfect.
- Be open-minded—especially if you’re coming from Western fast-paced cultures.
- Let go of hyper-independence—community support is woven into daily life.
“Don’t compare it to the places you’ve been,” Updegraff stressed. “That can be a recipe for disappointment.”
A New Kind of Homecoming
A decade after the Year of Return, Ghana’s call to the African diaspora remains strong. For some, the journey offers peace. For others, opportunity. And for many more, it offers the one thing they didn’t realize they were missing: a place that feels like home.
As Gordon put it, “I am not the same person I was a few years ago. Ghana changed my life tremendously.”
For the growing number of Black expats making the move—or dreaming of one—Ghana continues to promise not just travel, but transformation.
Editor’s note: This story has been culled from an article published on Travel Noire. Read the original article here.
Taste GH
Crispy, Milky, Irresistible: Discover the Street Magic of Wagashi
In many Ghanaian markets, the scent of sizzling cheese drifting from a charcoal grill is enough to slow a passerby’s steps. Golden cubes crackle in hot oil, their edges turning crisp while the inside stays tender and milky.
This is Wagashi, a beloved street snack whose simple ingredients hide a surprisingly rich story of culture and flavour.
Often called “African cheese,” wagashi is made from fresh cow’s milk and traditionally prepared by Fulani herders who have long moved through northern and coastal parts of Ghana.
The cheese is gently curdled, pressed, and cut into small blocks before being lightly salted or soaked in herbal-infused water that gives some varieties their pale golden colour.
When fried, wagashi develops a delicate crust that contrasts beautifully with its soft interior.
Across towns and cities—from roadside stalls in Accra to bustling markets in Kumasi—vendors sell wagashi hot from the pan, often paired with spicy pepper sauce or tucked into bread.
@akosuahstastyrecipe HOMEMADE WAGAASHI ✅INGREDIENTS Fresh Full cream cow milk from nana milk 1/2 cup vinegar (ACV) Salt to taste A cup of cold water Hot sauce #ghanatiktok🇬🇭 #ghana #ghanafood #fypシ゚viral #fyp #wagaashi #cheese #snacks #streefood #ghanaian #homemade ♬ Effiakuma Broken Heart – Kofi Kinaata
Some people enjoy it as a quick breakfast bite, while others snack on it in the afternoon when hunger creeps in between meals. Its mild flavour and satisfying texture make it a versatile favourite, equally appealing to schoolchildren, traders, and travellers.
Beyond taste, wagashi carries a wholesome appeal. Made primarily from fresh milk and lightly processed, it provides protein and calcium in a hearty yet light form.
For visitors exploring Ghana’s vibrant street food culture, wagashi offers a delicious starting point.
And for Ghanaians, the familiar bite—crispy outside, soft within—remains a small but comforting reminder of everyday culinary heritage.
Sights and Sounds
The Fante Surname: How Trade and Tradition Created Ghana’s Most Unique Names
In the bustling coastal markets of Cape Coast and the historic streets of Elmina, a peculiar roll call echoes through the ages.
You will hear names like Blankson, Ferguson, and Bates—surnames that sound more like the streets of London or Liverpool than the central coast of Ghana.
While many post-colonial nations have sought to strip away the nomenclature of their former occupiers, for the Fante people, these European names have become an indelible, complex part of their cultural DNA.
The story of the “English-named” Fante is not merely one of colonial imposition; it is a fascinating case study in trade, social climbing, and the fluid nature of identity.
The Trade Desk and the Baptismal Font
The roots of this naming convention stretch back centuries to when the Fante were the primary intermediaries between the European powers and the interior of the Gold Coast.
Living along the coast in places like Takoradi and Sekondi, the Fante were the first to engage in the intensive exchange of textiles, metals, and alcohol.
Over decades of close contact, the lines between business and personal identity began to blur. A local man working for a British trader named Bates might eventually adopt the name for professional convenience.
When the waves of Christian missionaries followed the traders, the process accelerated. To be baptized was to be “civilized” in the eyes of the Church, and baptism often required an English name.
These names were easier for the British to pronounce and, more importantly, they signaled a high level of association with the ruling power.
For a Fante father in the 1800s, naming his son “Jason Kwame Bates” wasn’t seen as an abandonment of his heritage, but rather as equipping his child with a “passport” to better opportunities.
When Association Becomes Status
As the decades passed, what began as a tool for trade evolved into a marker of prestige. English names became tied to high social status.
This psychological shift was famously critiqued by the revered Ghanaian filmmaker Kwaw Ansah in his masterpiece, Heritage Africa.
In the film, the protagonist, Kwesi Atta Bosomefi, chooses to reinvent himself as “Quincy Arthur Bosumfield.” While the change sounds creative, the narrative serves as a cautionary tale: in his desperate bid to climb the colonial social ladder by changing his name and ideals, he ultimately loses his sense of self.
It was a poignant reflection of a reality for many: the fear that in adopting the world of the “other,” one might inadvertently erase their own.
Living in Both Worlds
Today, the presence of these names in Ghana is no longer viewed through the narrow lens of colonial submission. Instead, it represents a unique synthesis of history. The modern Fante perspective suggests a form of dual citizenship of the soul.
The lesson hidden in this naming history is profound: one can be “Kofi” and “Joseph” simultaneously. Having a European surname does not negate one’s Ghanaian essence.
The challenge, as the history of the coast teaches us, is to move freely between both worlds without ever forgetting which one truly belongs to you.
Tourism
Five Stranded Cruise Ships Safely Exit Arabian Gulf Through Strait of Hormuz Before Iran Reimposes Closure
Five major cruise ships that had been stranded in the Arabian Gulf since the outbreak of the Iran conflict successfully transited the Strait of Hormuz on Friday, April 17, just hours before Iran announced it was closing the vital waterway again.
The ships — Celestyal Discovery, Celestyal Journey, MSC Euribia, Mein Schiff 4, and Mein Schiff 5 (TUI Cruises) — took advantage of a brief window when Iran declared the strait open to commercial vessels following a two-week US-Iran ceasefire announced on April 7. Celestyal Discovery was the first to pass through on Friday evening, with the others following closely behind.
According to Marine Traffic data, all five vessels cleared the strait before Iran reversed its decision on Saturday, citing the continued US blockade on Iranian ports.
The ships are now safely en route to their next destinations.
MSC Cruises confirmed that MSC Euribia has safely transited the strait and is heading to Northern Europe. The ship will resume its summer season earlier than expected, with a cruise departing from Kiel, Germany, on May 16. Guests affected by earlier cancellations have been offered the opportunity to join this sailing.
Celestyal Cruises, whose two ships were also among those repositioned, is preparing to restart Mediterranean operations in early May. The line’s next scheduled departures include a three-night Iconic Greek Islands cruise on Celestyal Discovery on May 1 and a seven-night Heavenly Greece, Italy and Croatia sailing on Celestyal Journey on May 2.
The successful transit brings relief to thousands of passengers and crew members who had been stuck for weeks due to the regional conflict and shipping disruptions in the Gulf.
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