Tourism
Black Expats in Ghana: A New Wave of Diaspora Migration Is Shaping Lives
Ghana’s rise as a preferred destination for African diasporans continues to reshape both its tourism landscape and its global reputation.
A decade after the country launched the landmark “Year of Return” in 2019—a campaign inviting people of African descent to reconnect with their ancestral homeland—Ghana is still experiencing a steady influx of Black expats seeking healing, purpose, and a slower, more grounded way of life.
Reports say an estimated 1,500 Black Americans have relocated since 2020. And in late 2024, the government granted Ghanaian citizenship to more than 500 members of the diaspora, cementing the country’s role as a continental gateway for cultural reconnection.
For many, the draw goes beyond tourism. It’s a quest for belonging.
A New Life Through Food—and Citizenship
When Deijha Gordon left New York City in 2019, burnout had already taken a toll. The post office worker was longing for a change when a 2015 trip to Ghana opened her eyes to a different rhythm of life.
“When I first stepped off the plane, I was amazed by the welcoming atmosphere and culture,” she recalled.
Five years after immigration, Gordon—now a Ghanaian citizen—owns Deijha Vu’s Jerk Hut, a Jamaican food truck that has become a favorite among both locals and tourists. But the journey wasn’t easy. She poured her savings into building a restaurant before the pandemic stalled her progress. When the business faltered, she “had to go back to the drawing board,” ultimately restarting her dream with a food truck.
That decision changed everything. A surprise visit from celebrities including influencer Jessie Woo propelled her business forward—and today she’s planning to franchise, with potential expansion into Nigeria.
Gordon says Ghana forced her to unlearn the “constant pressure to have it all figured out.” What replaced it was a calmer, more communal lifestyle. “In Ghana, people want to help you, even with the little things. I had to learn to accept that.”
Healing in a Place Where “the Weight Falls Off”
For illustrator Nicole Updegraff, Ghana was less a fresh start and more a profound emotional reset. She moved to Accra in 2015 with her family after her husband took a U.S. Embassy assignment—and what she found fundamentally reshaped her understanding of freedom.
“When you grow up in the U.S., there is an armor you have to put on as a Black person,” she said. “Those feelings were gone in Ghana.”
Her years in Accra coincided with nationwide protests in the United States over the police killings of Michael Brown, Philando Castile, Tamir Rice, and others. Watching the news from Ghana, she felt the magnitude of the contrast:
“Being there was more than relief; it was safety.”
Life wasn’t without its challenges—power outages, mosquito nets gone rogue, or adjusting to local rhythms—but she says the community made the transition bearable. A nanny, housekeeper, and gardener became “lifelines” who held her family together. “They became our family.”
Updegraff now lives back in the U.S., but says Ghana imprinted something permanent: “Ghana anchored me as a Black American. It made me feel like I always had a place to go home.”
Ghana as a Tourism and Cultural Haven
As tourism continues to rebound globally, Ghana stands out—not for luxury resorts or tropical beaches alone, but for its cultural gravity. For travelers of African descent seeking reconnection, the country offers more than sightseeing. It offers grounding.
Visitors today can explore everything from bustling markets in Accra to the somber historical sites along the Cape Coast. But increasingly, the country is attracting people interested in long-term stays, community, entrepreneurship, and spiritual restoration.
Advice for Would-Be Movers
Both expats share similar wisdom:
- Visit first—walk the markets, talk to locals, learn how the city hums.
- Manage expectations—Ghana is growing, evolving, and wonderfully imperfect.
- Be open-minded—especially if you’re coming from Western fast-paced cultures.
- Let go of hyper-independence—community support is woven into daily life.
“Don’t compare it to the places you’ve been,” Updegraff stressed. “That can be a recipe for disappointment.”
A New Kind of Homecoming
A decade after the Year of Return, Ghana’s call to the African diaspora remains strong. For some, the journey offers peace. For others, opportunity. And for many more, it offers the one thing they didn’t realize they were missing: a place that feels like home.
As Gordon put it, “I am not the same person I was a few years ago. Ghana changed my life tremendously.”
For the growing number of Black expats making the move—or dreaming of one—Ghana continues to promise not just travel, but transformation.
Editor’s note: This story has been culled from an article published on Travel Noire. Read the original article here.
Taste GH
Wasawasa: The Ghanaian Dish That Turns Yam Peels into Culinary Gold
Morning light in northern Ghana often rises to the earthy aroma of steaming Wasawasa, a humble yet deeply loved dish that tells the story of Dagbon’s resourceful kitchen.
Made from dried yam peels ground into coarse flour and gently steamed, Wasawasa may appear simple at first glance.
Yet its flavour carries a quiet richness—nutty, warm, and slightly smoky from the steaming process. Served with a drizzle of shea butter oil, a sprinkle of fresh pepper, onions, or sometimes fried fish, the dish transforms into something comforting and satisfying.
For the people of Dagbon in northern Ghana, Wasawasa is more than breakfast or lunch—it is heritage on a plate.
The dish reflects a culture that values resourcefulness, turning what might otherwise be discarded into something nourishing and delicious. Yam farming has long shaped life in the north, and Wasawasa grew naturally from that relationship with the land.
In towns such as Tamale and Savelugu, roadside vendors begin serving bowls of steaming Wasawasa early in the morning.
Market women, schoolchildren, farmers, and travellers gather around wooden tables, sharing quick meals before the day unfolds. Its light but filling texture makes it ideal for the region’s warm climate.
@foodblog9ja WASAWASA 😋🇬🇭 “Wasawasa is eaten like “Zongo rice” … with some cooked beans, salad, spaghetti, fish/meat/wele, flavored oil (stew) and shito. The texture when eating is similar to couscous but isn’t as fluffy or chewy…. It’s unique in its own way and easy to enjoy! The combination of all the other accoutrements makes it very filling and flavorful. On its own it tastes good because of the flavored oil and salt added.. but combined with everything else, it tastes even better! Are you willing to try it?” . Credits: IG/torikubu_explores . . (Follow @foodblog9ja For More Amazing Food Contents) #streetfood #northernfood #wasawasa #ghanaianfoodculture #Foodblog9ja #foodblog9jarecipes #foodblog9javideos #foodblog9jatv ♬ original sound – Foodblog9ja
Beyond its cultural charm, Wasawasa also holds a quiet health appeal. High in fibre and naturally plant-based, it reflects the wholesome simplicity of traditional Ghanaian diets.
For visitors exploring Ghana’s northern region, tasting Wasawasa offers more than a new flavour—it provides a glimpse into the everyday rhythm of Dagbon life, where ingenuity, tradition, and hospitality meet in a bowl of steaming comfort.
Taste GH
Smoke, Sweetness and Street Life: The Timeless Charm of Ghana’s Roasted Corn
The smell reaches you before the sight of it—sweet, smoky, and unmistakably Ghanaian.
Along busy roads, outside markets, and at quiet neighborhood corners, roasted corn sizzles over glowing charcoal, turning a simple cob into one of the country’s most beloved street snacks.
In Ghana, roasted corn is more than something to nibble on; it is a small ritual woven into everyday life. Vendors fan open charcoal grills while rows of fresh maize slowly char, their golden kernels blistering and caramelising in the heat.
The result is a balance of flavours—naturally sweet corn deepened by a hint of smoke and a gentle crunch that gives way to juicy kernels.
During the maize harvest season, the snack becomes almost impossible to ignore. Stalls appear everywhere, from bustling city roads in Accra to quiet roadside stops in small towns.
Often, the corn is paired with fresh coconut, whose cool, milky sweetness perfectly complements the warm smokiness of the roasted kernels.
For many Ghanaians, roasted corn carries the taste of late afternoons and long journeys. Commuters buy it on their way home, students snack on it after school, and travellers reach for it during road trips across the country. It is affordable, filling, and surprisingly nutritious, rich in fibre and energy.
For visitors to Ghana, roasted corn offers something rare: a taste of daily life. No restaurant reservation is required—just follow the drifting aroma of charcoal and maize, and you will find one of Ghana’s simplest and most authentic culinary pleasures.
Taste GH
Ivory Coast Roots, Ghanaian Soul: The Irresistible Rise of Akyeke and Tilapia
While the world often obsesses over Ghana’s spicy rice dishes, those in the know look toward the coast for a texture and tang that is entirely singular: akyeke and tilapia.
If you walk through the bustling streets of Osu or find yourself seaside in Takoradi, the air is thick with the scent of salted, grilled fish and the fermented brightness of cassava.
Akyeke (pronounced a-check-eh) is the crown jewel of the Nzema people, though its popularity has swept across the nation. At first glance, it looks like couscous, but the similarity ends there.
Made from fermented, grated cassava, it carries a light, fluffy texture and a signature tartness that cuts through the richness of its accompaniments. It is almost always served with a plump, charcoal-grilled tilapia—the skin charred to a crisp, the flesh underneath steaming and succulent.
The magic, however, lies in the “sides.” A mountain of akyeke is crowned with a vibrant medley of diced tomatoes, onions, and spicy green chilies, all drizzled with high-quality coconut oil or crude palm oil.
It is a masterpiece of temperature and texture—cold, zesty vegetables meeting hot, oily fish. For the health-conscious traveler, it is a gluten-free powerhouse, offering sustained energy without the heaviness of fried starches.
Eating akyeke is an experience in balance. It’s the go-to lunch for the Ghanaian professional and the ultimate weekend indulgence for families.
For any visitor, it represents the true taste of West African coastal life: breezy, bold, and brilliantly fresh.
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