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Black Expats in Ghana: A New Wave of Diaspora Migration Is Shaping Lives

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Ghana’s rise as a preferred destination for African diasporans continues to reshape both its tourism landscape and its global reputation.

A decade after the country launched the landmark “Year of Return” in 2019—a campaign inviting people of African descent to reconnect with their ancestral homeland—Ghana is still experiencing a steady influx of Black expats seeking healing, purpose, and a slower, more grounded way of life.

Reports say an estimated 1,500 Black Americans have relocated since 2020. And in late 2024, the government granted Ghanaian citizenship to more than 500 members of the diaspora, cementing the country’s role as a continental gateway for cultural reconnection.

For many, the draw goes beyond tourism. It’s a quest for belonging.

A New Life Through Food—and Citizenship

When Deijha Gordon left New York City in 2019, burnout had already taken a toll. The post office worker was longing for a change when a 2015 trip to Ghana opened her eyes to a different rhythm of life.

“When I first stepped off the plane, I was amazed by the welcoming atmosphere and culture,” she recalled.

Five years after immigration, Gordon—now a Ghanaian citizen—owns Deijha Vu’s Jerk Hut, a Jamaican food truck that has become a favorite among both locals and tourists. But the journey wasn’t easy. She poured her savings into building a restaurant before the pandemic stalled her progress. When the business faltered, she “had to go back to the drawing board,” ultimately restarting her dream with a food truck.

That decision changed everything. A surprise visit from celebrities including influencer Jessie Woo propelled her business forward—and today she’s planning to franchise, with potential expansion into Nigeria.

Gordon says Ghana forced her to unlearn the “constant pressure to have it all figured out.” What replaced it was a calmer, more communal lifestyle. “In Ghana, people want to help you, even with the little things. I had to learn to accept that.”

Healing in a Place Where “the Weight Falls Off”

For illustrator Nicole Updegraff, Ghana was less a fresh start and more a profound emotional reset. She moved to Accra in 2015 with her family after her husband took a U.S. Embassy assignment—and what she found fundamentally reshaped her understanding of freedom.

“When you grow up in the U.S., there is an armor you have to put on as a Black person,” she said. “Those feelings were gone in Ghana.”

Her years in Accra coincided with nationwide protests in the United States over the police killings of Michael Brown, Philando Castile, Tamir Rice, and others. Watching the news from Ghana, she felt the magnitude of the contrast:

“Being there was more than relief; it was safety.”

Life wasn’t without its challenges—power outages, mosquito nets gone rogue, or adjusting to local rhythms—but she says the community made the transition bearable. A nanny, housekeeper, and gardener became “lifelines” who held her family together. “They became our family.”

Updegraff now lives back in the U.S., but says Ghana imprinted something permanent: “Ghana anchored me as a Black American. It made me feel like I always had a place to go home.”

Ghana as a Tourism and Cultural Haven

As tourism continues to rebound globally, Ghana stands out—not for luxury resorts or tropical beaches alone, but for its cultural gravity. For travelers of African descent seeking reconnection, the country offers more than sightseeing. It offers grounding.

Visitors today can explore everything from bustling markets in Accra to the somber historical sites along the Cape Coast. But increasingly, the country is attracting people interested in long-term stays, community, entrepreneurship, and spiritual restoration.

Advice for Would-Be Movers

Both expats share similar wisdom:

  • Visit first—walk the markets, talk to locals, learn how the city hums.
  • Manage expectations—Ghana is growing, evolving, and wonderfully imperfect.
  • Be open-minded—especially if you’re coming from Western fast-paced cultures.
  • Let go of hyper-independence—community support is woven into daily life.

“Don’t compare it to the places you’ve been,” Updegraff stressed. “That can be a recipe for disappointment.”

A New Kind of Homecoming

A decade after the Year of Return, Ghana’s call to the African diaspora remains strong. For some, the journey offers peace. For others, opportunity. And for many more, it offers the one thing they didn’t realize they were missing: a place that feels like home.

As Gordon put it, “I am not the same person I was a few years ago. Ghana changed my life tremendously.”

For the growing number of Black expats making the move—or dreaming of one—Ghana continues to promise not just travel, but transformation.

Editor’s note: This story has been culled from an article published on Travel Noire. Read the original article here.

Sights and Sounds

Where Accra Finds Its Rhythm: Inside the Live Music World of +233 Jazz Bar & Grill

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As evening settles over Accra, the sound of a saxophone, the pulse of a highlife guitar and the murmur of conversation come together at +233 Jazz Bar & Grill, a venue where the city’s musical traditions meet its cosmopolitan nightlife.

Located in the Ridge area, near Ghana Police Headquarters, +233 takes its name from Ghana’s international telephone dialling code. It is a fitting expression of local identity for a venue that has become a recognised meeting point for music lovers, performers and visitors seeking an authentic taste of Accra after dark.

A Stage for Ghana’s Musical Heritage

Music is the main attraction. Operating most nights from Tuesday to Sunday, with performances typically beginning around 8pm, the venue offers a programme spanning jazz, highlife, Afrobeat, blues and soul.

Highlife, a distinctly Ghanaian musical tradition shaped by local rhythms and influences from elsewhere, holds a special place in the country’s cultural story. Hearing it alongside jazz and Afrobeat creates an opportunity to appreciate the connections between Ghana’s musical heritage and wider global sounds.

The venue has welcomed established Ghanaian performers and international artists, while continuing to provide a platform for emerging talent. Its appeal lies partly in this balance between familiar favourites and fresh voices.

Music, Food and an Open-Air Atmosphere

Spread across two levels, the venue combines indoor seating with an outdoor terrace where guests can enjoy Accra’s evening breeze.

Bars on both floors make it easy to order a drink without losing touch with the performance.

The menu complements the music with grilled favourites such as kebabs, burgers, pork chops and chips. Cocktails, beers and soft drinks round out the experience, whether guests arrive for dinner or settle in for a full evening of live entertainment.

A Different Side of Accra

For international visitors, +233 offers a welcoming introduction to the capital’s contemporary music scene. For residents, it provides a place to meet friends and celebrate the musicians shaping Ghanaian sound.

With its blend of live performance, relaxed dining and local identity, +233 Jazz Bar & Grill makes a compelling case for experiencing Accra one song at a time.

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Taste GH

The Ghanaian Favourites That Bring Every Meal to Life

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The aroma of onions sizzling in red palm oil, ripe tomatoes softening into a rich sauce, and fresh green leaves releasing their earthy fragrance is enough to make many Ghanaians anticipate a satisfying meal.

Across Ghana, Kontomire, Palawa and Okro stews bring colour, flavour and nourishment to everyday dining, turning familiar local ingredients into dishes that connect families to home and tradition.

Kontomire: Earthy, Rich and Comforting

Kontomire stew is made primarily with cocoyam leaves, tomatoes and egusi, the ground seeds of certain melon varieties.

The leaves provide an earthy, distinctive flavour, while egusi adds richness and a pleasantly nutty taste.

Tomatoes contribute a gentle tang, creating a hearty dish that pairs beautifully with boiled yam, ripe plantain or rice.

Cocoyam leaves also provide fibre and micronutrients, while egusi contributes plant-based protein and healthy fats.

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Taste GH

Is the Ghanaian Diet Healthy? The Goodness Behind Traditional Foods

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A steaming bowl of kontomire stew, freshly boiled yam or ripe plantain sizzling in a pan tells a story of Ghanaian food that goes beyond taste: it is a tradition with plenty of nutritional promise.

Ghanaian cuisine draws much of its appeal from familiar, locally sourced ingredients, including starchy staples, leafy vegetables, legumes, fish, meat and aromatic spices. When prepared thoughtfully, these foods can form the foundation of a balanced and nourishing diet.

The Goodness on the Plate

Walk through a Ghanaian market and you will find colourful displays of garden eggs, okro, tomatoes, peppers and cocoyam leaves, alongside heaps of yam and plantain.

These ingredients are more than kitchen essentials. They provide nutrients that support everyday health.

Kontomire stew, prepared with cocoyam leaves, tomatoes, and often egusi, offers fibre and useful micronutrients.

Okro brings its characteristic slippery texture to soups while providing fibre, and garden eggs add variety to stews and sauces. These vegetables are beloved for their distinctive flavours and their place in everyday Ghanaian cooking.

Yam and plantain provide energy, making them satisfying companions to soups, stews and protein-rich dishes.

Beans and groundnuts contribute plant protein, while fish supplies protein and, depending on the variety, beneficial omega-3 fatty acids.

The fragrance of ginger, garlic, onions and fresh peppers gives Ghanaian dishes their unmistakable character, allowing cooks to build flavour from ingredients rather than relying entirely on salt.

Healthy Eating Starts with Balance

Traditional foods are not automatically healthy in every preparation. Large portions, excessive oil, salt and frequent deep-frying can affect a meal’s nutritional value.

Balancing starchy foods with vegetables and protein, choosing varied cooking methods and moderating salt and oil can make a meaningful difference.

Ultimately, Ghanaian cuisine offers a delicious starting point for healthy eating. From family meals to bustling roadside food stalls, its greatest nutritional strength lies in the ingredients, preparation and balance behind every plate.

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