Tourism
African-Americans Share Why They Chose Ghana For Good: ‘People Went Out In Chains, We Came Back In Crowns’
Ghana’s landmark “Year of Return” campaign continues to reshape the country’s relationship with the African diaspora. A growing number of African-Americans are now investing, settling, and building new lives in the West African nation.
A new BBC World Service documentary, The Return, explores this accelerating migration — one rooted in history, identity, and a search for home.
The documentary opens in Cape Coast, where the haunting stone walls of Cape Coast Castle still hold the memory of millions of enslaved Africans forced through its “Door of No Return.” For many African-Americans visiting Ghana, that doorway is not just a symbol of the past, but a point of reconnection.
“It’s always a gut-wrenching experience,” the narrator says, standing on the castle’s worn white grounds. “But for Black people from the U.S., visiting a place like this can take on a whole new level of significance.”
That significance is precisely what Ghana tapped into in 2019 with the launch of the Year of Return, a government-backed initiative inviting descendants of the transatlantic slave trade to reconnect with the continent — and, for many, to come home. The campaign sparked a wave of pilgrimages, emotional homecomings, and eventually, permanent relocations.
“When they said, ‘Black people, come back,’ it hit me deeply,” one returnee explains in the documentary. “People went out in chains. We want them to come back in crowns.”
According to available data, more than 1,500 African-Americans have since moved to Ghana permanently. The number is expected to rise under the government’s ongoing 10-year Beyond the Return program.
Among them is Dr. Ashley Milton, an environmental scientist from Los Angeles who now lives in Accra’s lively Kuku Hill neighborhood. She narrates much of the documentary, offering both personal insight and professional perspective.
The documentary also features the story of Morris Beers, who moved from Los Angeles in 2020. His turning point came during a conversation in the U.S.
“Someone told me, ‘If you feel that strongly about Africa, why don’t you go live there?’” he recalled. “I thought about it and said, ‘You know what — I love it there. I can live there. No problem.’”
For many, the decision to relocate is about far more than geography. It is a reclaiming of identity, a rejection of racial hostility in the U.S., and a search for a community that feels like home.

But the documentary does not romanticize the journey. It acknowledges adjustment challenges, cultural gaps, and the emotional weight of confronting the past in places like Cape Coast Castle, where one returnee described feeling as though “the ancestors were searing into my body.”
Still, the migration trend is unmistakable, and growing.
Ghana’s government sees it not only as a cultural opportunity, but as an economic and diplomatic one, strengthening ties between Africa and its global diaspora.
The riveting documentary reflects how what began as a symbolic homecoming has evolved into one of the most significant diasporan movements of the 21st century.
The new movement is a modern return through the same doorway that once marked a point of no return.
Tourism
Ghana Overtakes Cape Verde as West Africa’s Most Powerful Passport
Ghana has emerged as the holder of the most powerful passport in West Africa, overtaking Cape Verde in the latest global ranking by the Passport Index.
The development places Ghana 63rd worldwide, one spot ahead of Cape Verde, which now ranks 64th globally.
The Passport Index ranks countries based on the level of visa-free and visa-on-arrival access their citizens enjoy across the world. Ghana’s improved position reflects broader international mobility for its passport holders, strengthening the country’s travel standing within the sub-region and beyond.
According to the latest rankings, Ghana now leads West Africa, followed by Cape Verde, The Gambia, Benin Republic, Sierra Leone, Senegal, Togo, Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, and Niger. The assessment considers how easily citizens can enter other countries without prior visas or with simplified arrival procedures.
Analysts say Ghana’s rise underscores the growing diplomatic reach of the country, as well as improvements in bilateral and multilateral travel agreements. For business travellers, students, tourists, and members of the Ghanaian diaspora, a stronger passport translates into fewer travel barriers and expanded global opportunities.
The ranking also highlights the competitive nature of passport strength within West Africa, as countries continue to pursue policies that enhance global access for their citizens. While Ghana now holds the regional lead, experts note that sustained diplomatic engagement and international cooperation will be key to maintaining and improving passport strength over time.
For Ghana, the latest recognition adds to its image as a leading West African nation with increasing global connectivity and influence.
Tourism
‘Visa-Free’ Ghana Travel Claims Questioned After Visitors Turned Away at Airports
A growing debate has emerged over Ghana’s much-publicized “visa-free” or visa-on-arrival travel narrative after a U.S.-based travel platform, Expat Life Ghana, reported that one of its guests was denied boarding by an airline despite planning to obtain a visa on arrival in Accra.
In a widely shared YouTube video, the channel’s hosts said the traveller — flying from North Carolina to Ghana for December events — was stopped at the airline check-in counter and ultimately barred from boarding because they lacked a pre-authorisation letter from Ghana Immigration Services (GIS).
According to the account, airline officials insisted that passengers must now present documentary proof of approval for a visa on arrival before departure, warning that carriers face heavy fines if they transport passengers without such authorization.
Tightened rules, unclear messaging
The incident has reignited concerns among members of the African diaspora and international travellers about confusion surrounding Ghana’s entry requirements. While Ghana has in recent years announced visa-free or visa-on-arrival initiatives — particularly during the December “Year of Return” and “Beyond the Return” tourism seasons — Expat Life Ghana says the practical reality has quietly changed.
“The system now requires a physical pre-approval letter issued by Ghana Immigration Services before airlines will allow passengers to fly,” the presenters said, describing the process as closer to a “pre-approved visa pickup” than true visa-on-arrival travel.
They added that past practice, where travellers could simply arrive and pay the required fee at Kotoka International Airport, no longer applies in most cases.
System challenges and access issues
The video also highlighted difficulties in navigating official application channels. According to the presenters, online application portals linked to Ghana Immigration Services either failed to function fully or provided no clear submission endpoint. Attempts to reach authorities via listed phone numbers, live chat support and email reportedly went unanswered for weeks.
Travellers outside major U.S. cities with Ghanaian diplomatic missions may face additional hurdles. For some, submitting documents in person would require long-distance travel, undermining the convenience often associated with visa-on-arrival schemes.
After publishing the video, Expat Life Ghana said GIS later responded through its online chat platform, confirming that “there really is no visa on arrival” without prior approval.
Implications for tourism and diaspora travel
The development comes at a time when Ghana continues to market itself as a welcoming gateway for Africans in the diaspora and international visitors, particularly during peak tourism periods such as December.
Travel analysts warn that inconsistent messaging around visa policy risks undermining confidence among potential visitors. Airlines, bound by international carrier liability rules, are increasingly strict about entry documentation, leaving travellers to bear the cost of denied boarding if requirements are unclear.
Tour operators and relocation advisers are now urging visitors to obtain visas in advance through Ghanaian embassies or consulates, even if this means using expedited services, rather than relying on visa-on-arrival expectations based on earlier travel advisories.
Calls for clarity
Observers say the situation underscores the need for clearer, up-to-date public communication from immigration authorities to align official policy, airline systems and traveller expectations.
Ghana has positioned itself as a leading destination for tourism, business and long-term relocation in Africa, and so stakeholders argue that transparency and consistency in visa processes will be critical to sustaining trust and protecting the country’s global image as an accessible destination.
Tourism
ECOWAS to Cut Air Ticket Taxes from 2026, Making Flights Cheaper Across West Africa
The Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) has approved a landmark aviation reform that is expected to significantly reduce the cost of air travel across the sub-region from January 1, 2026.
The move is seen as a major boost to regional integration, trade and tourism.
At a summit of Heads of State and Government held in Abuja in December 2024, ECOWAS leaders adopted a Supplementary Act that will abolish taxes applied to air transport in all member states and cut passenger and security charges by 25 percent.
The decision directly targets one of West Africa’s most persistent transport challenges: some of the highest airfares in the world.
According to ECOWAS and industry studies, taxes and charges can account for up to 50 percent of the total cost of an air ticket in the region. Passengers currently pay as many as 66 separate charges, while airlines face more than 100 different fees to operate flights. As a result, air travel costs in West Africa are estimated to be 85 percent higher than the global average for regional flights and 82 percent higher for international routes.
A boost for regional mobility and integration
The reform is expected to have wide-ranging implications for West Africa, including Ghana, which hosts one of the region’s busiest routes, Accra–Lagos. Despite this, West Africa accounts for only a fraction of Africa’s total air traffic, with Northern Africa handling about 40 percent of the continent’s passenger volumes.
High ticket prices have long discouraged travel, constrained tourism growth and limited cross-border business. They have also undermined ECOWAS’s flagship protocol on the free movement of persons and goods, a cornerstone of regional integration.
By removing air ticket taxes and reducing key charges, ECOWAS estimates that airfares could fall by as much as 40 percent, making flying more accessible to a broader segment of the population. Airlines are expected to carry more passengers, while airports and surrounding communities stand to benefit from increased economic activity.
Long-term gains for airlines and governments
While governments currently rely heavily on aviation taxes for revenue, ECOWAS argues that the existing system has created a vicious cycle of high costs, low travel volumes and limited reinvestment in airport infrastructure. The new policy aims to reverse that trend by stimulating demand and, over time, generating higher overall revenue through increased passenger numbers and a more vibrant aviation sector.
The reform aligns with global aviation principles under the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) and the Chicago Convention, which promote fair, transparent and non-discriminatory practices. It is also expected to enhance the competitiveness of West African airlines and encourage investment in airport and aviation infrastructure.
Implementation and oversight
Although Supplementary Acts adopted by ECOWAS authorities are legally binding, member states will be required to amend national laws, policies and regulatory frameworks to ensure uniform implementation across the region. Airlines are also expected to pass on the cost savings directly to passengers through lower fares.
To ensure compliance, the ECOWAS Commission will establish a Regional Air Transport Economic Oversight Mechanism and continue to pursue complementary initiatives such as regional aircraft leasing schemes, joint maintenance facilities and harmonised safety standards.
Looking ahead to 2026
For travellers, businesses and governments alike, the reform represents a significant shift in how air transport supports development in West Africa.
More affordable flights are expected to strengthen family ties across borders, expand trade and tourism, and deepen socio-economic links among ECOWAS member states.
As the region moves toward 2026, ECOWAS leaders say the goal is clear: a more open, competitive and accessible West African sky that supports growth and brings the promise of regional integration closer to everyday reality.
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