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African-Americans Share Why They Chose Ghana For Good: ‘People Went Out In Chains, We Came Back In Crowns’

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Ghana’s landmark “Year of Return” campaign continues to reshape the country’s relationship with the African diaspora. A growing number of African-Americans are now investing, settling, and building new lives in the West African nation.

A new BBC World Service documentary, The Return, explores this accelerating migration — one rooted in history, identity, and a search for home.

The documentary opens in Cape Coast, where the haunting stone walls of Cape Coast Castle still hold the memory of millions of enslaved Africans forced through its “Door of No Return.” For many African-Americans visiting Ghana, that doorway is not just a symbol of the past, but a point of reconnection.

“It’s always a gut-wrenching experience,” the narrator says, standing on the castle’s worn white grounds. “But for Black people from the U.S., visiting a place like this can take on a whole new level of significance.”

That significance is precisely what Ghana tapped into in 2019 with the launch of the Year of Return, a government-backed initiative inviting descendants of the transatlantic slave trade to reconnect with the continent — and, for many, to come home. The campaign sparked a wave of pilgrimages, emotional homecomings, and eventually, permanent relocations.

“When they said, ‘Black people, come back,’ it hit me deeply,” one returnee explains in the documentary. “People went out in chains. We want them to come back in crowns.”

According to available data, more than 1,500 African-Americans have since moved to Ghana permanently. The number is expected to rise under the government’s ongoing 10-year Beyond the Return program.

Among them is Dr. Ashley Milton, an environmental scientist from Los Angeles who now lives in Accra’s lively Kuku Hill neighborhood. She narrates much of the documentary, offering both personal insight and professional perspective.

The documentary also features the story of Morris Beers, who moved from Los Angeles in 2020. His turning point came during a conversation in the U.S.

“Someone told me, ‘If you feel that strongly about Africa, why don’t you go live there?’” he recalled. “I thought about it and said, ‘You know what — I love it there. I can live there. No problem.’”

For many, the decision to relocate is about far more than geography. It is a reclaiming of identity, a rejection of racial hostility in the U.S., and a search for a community that feels like home.

An African-American family living in Tema, Ghana, after moving from Houston, Texas. (Image Courtesy MAX)

But the documentary does not romanticize the journey. It acknowledges adjustment challenges, cultural gaps, and the emotional weight of confronting the past in places like Cape Coast Castle, where one returnee described feeling as though “the ancestors were searing into my body.”

Still, the migration trend is unmistakable, and growing.

Ghana’s government sees it not only as a cultural opportunity, but as an economic and diplomatic one, strengthening ties between Africa and its global diaspora.

The riveting documentary reflects how what began as a symbolic homecoming has evolved into one of the most significant diasporan movements of the 21st century.

The new movement is a modern return through the same doorway that once marked a point of no return.

Click here to listen to the full documentary podcast.

Sights and Sounds

Nine Hours That Changed the Gold Coast: The Legacy of the Battle of Katamanso

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The Battle of Katamanso was not simply a clash of armies. It was the moment when rival communities chose unity over division—and altered the course of the Gold Coast’s history.

In 1826, an estimated 40,000 Ashanti warriors marched south, determined to crush resistance and tighten control over the coast.

Their advance met an unlikely coalition on the plains near Dodowa, where Ga, Fante, Akwamu, Denkyira and other southern forces stood together, backed by British and Danish military support.

What followed was a brutal contest that stretched for hours. The forest became a battlefield of musket fire, cannon blasts and hand-to-hand combat as smoke hung over the trees and both sides paid a heavy price.

By the time the fighting ended, the outcome stunned the region. The Ashanti army, long regarded as one of West Africa’s most formidable military forces, suffered devastating losses, including prominent commanders.

For the Ashanti Kingdom, it marked one of the most painful defeats in its early history and brought its southern advance to a halt.

The consequences reached far beyond the battlefield. The victory strengthened southern alliances, boosted trade around Accra and gave Britain greater influence along the coast.

Political power began shifting toward the coastal settlements that would later play an increasingly important role in Ghana’s colonial story.

Katamanso’s legacy also lives in culture. Oral traditions recall mourning rituals, including hairstyles created to express collective grief, preserving the memory of lives lost long after the weapons fell silent.

Nearly two centuries later, the Battle of Katamanso remains a reminder that history can turn not only on military strength, but on the power of unlikely alliances.

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Taste GH

Ebunuebunu: Ghana’s Emerald Soup That Warms Every Table

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One glance at Ebunuebunu and you understand why Ghanaians call it one of the country’s most beautiful soups.

Its striking emerald-green colour arrives at the table steaming beside a generous mound of fufu, promising a meal that is as comforting as it is deeply rooted in tradition.

Also known as Abunuabunu, this beloved Akan soup transforms humble cocoyam leaves—locally called kontomire—into something unforgettable.

The leaves are blended into a silky base, often alongside turkey berries, creating a soup that is earthy, fresh and slightly herbaceous.

In some homes, spinach stands in when cocoyam leaves are unavailable, but the soul of the dish remains the same.

The aroma is unmistakably Ghanaian. Local spices mingle with smoked fish, snails or tender lamb, each ingredient adding its own layer of richness.

Smoked fish brings a deep savoury character, snails offer a pleasantly chewy bite, while lamb creates a hearty finish that makes the soup especially satisfying.

Turkey berries cut through the richness with a gentle bitterness that gives Ebunuebunu its distinctive balance.

The soup’s appeal goes beyond flavour. Cocoyam leaves are valued for their vitamins and minerals, while turkey berries have long been celebrated in Ghanaian kitchens for their nutritional qualities. Together, they create a meal that feels nourishing without sacrificing indulgence.

Served piping hot with soft, stretchy fufu, Ebunuebunu is more than lunch or dinner—it’s a gathering dish. It appears at family meals, festive occasions and Sunday tables where conversation lingers long after the bowls are empty.

For first-time visitors to Ghana, it offers a delicious introduction to Akan culinary heritage. For Ghanaians, every spoonful carries the familiar taste of home.

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Travel

3 Europe Travel Hacks That Could Save You Money and Make Every Trip Better

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There is a certain kind of magic in waking up somewhere completely unfamiliar. One moment you are falling asleep as a train rolls through the countryside, and the next you are stepping onto a platform in another city without paying for an extra hotel night.

It is one of those simple travel tricks that seasoned Europe explorers swear by, yet many first-time visitors never think to use.

After years of travelling across the continent, experienced travellers are sharing the practical habits that make European adventures smoother, cheaper and more rewarding.

From smarter transport choices to overlooked destinations, these tips prove that seeing more of Europe is not always about spending more money.

One of the biggest money-saving strategies is taking advantage of Europe’s extensive night train network. Countries including Austria, Germany, Italy and parts of Central Europe are connected by overnight rail services that allow passengers to travel while they sleep.

Instead of checking into another hotel, travellers can board an evening train and wake up ready to explore a new destination.

For budget-conscious travellers, including many Ghanaians planning multi-country European trips, this can stretch travel funds considerably while turning the journey itself into part of the experience.

Another surprisingly useful habit is downloading offline maps before arriving. Google Maps allows users to save entire cities or regions to their phones, making navigation possible even without mobile data or a reliable internet connection.

That can be especially helpful when arriving at airports late at night, exploring rural areas or trying to find accommodation in unfamiliar neighbourhoods.

Airport spending is another area where frequent travellers are finding unexpected savings. Those flying through participating European airports can use the Club Avolta app to collect loyalty points while shopping or dining.

The app offers rewards and discounts at selected airport retailers and restaurants, giving travellers extra value on purchases they might already be making during long layovers.

Accommodation is another area where travellers can rethink old assumptions. Staying directly in a city centre often comes with premium prices, but Europe’s public transport systems make nearby towns and suburbs surprisingly practical alternatives.

A short train or tram ride can significantly reduce accommodation costs while offering a quieter, more local experience away from tourist crowds.

Cities like Amsterdam, Paris and Milan all have neighbouring communities that provide easy access without the higher price tag.

Perhaps the strongest recommendation is to look beyond Europe’s most famous hotspots altogether.

Eastern Europe continues to attract travellers looking for a different side of the continent. Countries such as Poland, Romania, Hungary and Bulgaria often combine historic architecture, vibrant local culture and lower travel costs with fewer crowds than destinations like Paris or Venice.

Many visitors describe the region as offering a more relaxed pace, warm hospitality and authentic experiences that are becoming harder to find in Europe’s busiest tourist centres.

As international travel becomes more accessible, especially for Africans exploring Europe for leisure, study or business, these practical travel habits can make a noticeable difference. Sometimes the smartest travel upgrade is not booking a more expensive flight.

It is simply knowing the tricks that experienced travellers wish they had discovered much sooner.

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