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African-Americans Share Why They Chose Ghana For Good: ‘People Went Out In Chains, We Came Back In Crowns’

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Ghana’s landmark “Year of Return” campaign continues to reshape the country’s relationship with the African diaspora. A growing number of African-Americans are now investing, settling, and building new lives in the West African nation.

A new BBC World Service documentary, The Return, explores this accelerating migration — one rooted in history, identity, and a search for home.

The documentary opens in Cape Coast, where the haunting stone walls of Cape Coast Castle still hold the memory of millions of enslaved Africans forced through its “Door of No Return.” For many African-Americans visiting Ghana, that doorway is not just a symbol of the past, but a point of reconnection.

“It’s always a gut-wrenching experience,” the narrator says, standing on the castle’s worn white grounds. “But for Black people from the U.S., visiting a place like this can take on a whole new level of significance.”

That significance is precisely what Ghana tapped into in 2019 with the launch of the Year of Return, a government-backed initiative inviting descendants of the transatlantic slave trade to reconnect with the continent — and, for many, to come home. The campaign sparked a wave of pilgrimages, emotional homecomings, and eventually, permanent relocations.

“When they said, ‘Black people, come back,’ it hit me deeply,” one returnee explains in the documentary. “People went out in chains. We want them to come back in crowns.”

According to available data, more than 1,500 African-Americans have since moved to Ghana permanently. The number is expected to rise under the government’s ongoing 10-year Beyond the Return program.

Among them is Dr. Ashley Milton, an environmental scientist from Los Angeles who now lives in Accra’s lively Kuku Hill neighborhood. She narrates much of the documentary, offering both personal insight and professional perspective.

The documentary also features the story of Morris Beers, who moved from Los Angeles in 2020. His turning point came during a conversation in the U.S.

“Someone told me, ‘If you feel that strongly about Africa, why don’t you go live there?’” he recalled. “I thought about it and said, ‘You know what — I love it there. I can live there. No problem.’”

For many, the decision to relocate is about far more than geography. It is a reclaiming of identity, a rejection of racial hostility in the U.S., and a search for a community that feels like home.

An African-American family living in Tema, Ghana, after moving from Houston, Texas. (Image Courtesy MAX)

But the documentary does not romanticize the journey. It acknowledges adjustment challenges, cultural gaps, and the emotional weight of confronting the past in places like Cape Coast Castle, where one returnee described feeling as though “the ancestors were searing into my body.”

Still, the migration trend is unmistakable, and growing.

Ghana’s government sees it not only as a cultural opportunity, but as an economic and diplomatic one, strengthening ties between Africa and its global diaspora.

The riveting documentary reflects how what began as a symbolic homecoming has evolved into one of the most significant diasporan movements of the 21st century.

The new movement is a modern return through the same doorway that once marked a point of no return.

Click here to listen to the full documentary podcast.

Sights and Sounds

From Fantasy Coffins to Sunset by the Sea: Exploring Accra’s Living Art Scene

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The best way to understand Accra isn’t from behind the window of a tour bus. It is on foot, where every street, gallery and workshop reveals another layer of Ghana’s artistic identity.

An afternoon culture walk through the capital offers precisely that opportunity, bringing visitors face to face with traditions that continue to shape the country’s creative landscape.

The journey begins in the city’s thriving arts community, where contemporary galleries showcase paintings, sculptures and mixed-media works by Ghanaian and African artists. These spaces are more than exhibition venues.

They are meeting points for ideas, where established names and emerging talents challenge perceptions of African art while celebrating stories rooted in local experience.

One of the tour’s most memorable stops introduces visitors to one of Ghana’s most distinctive artistic traditions: fantasy coffins.

At first glance, the brightly coloured creations may seem surprising. Fashioned into forms ranging from fish and cocoa pods to cameras, aeroplanes and animals, they reflect the life, profession, achievements or aspirations of the deceased.

Originating among the Ga people of southern Ghana, fantasy coffins have become internationally recognised as remarkable examples of functional art.

They represent a cultural belief that death is not an ending but a continuation of life’s journey, where individuality deserves to be honoured with imagination and craftsmanship.

Today, these extraordinary works are admired in museums and exhibitions around the world while remaining deeply connected to the communities that created them.

As the walk continues, visitors gain an appreciation for Accra’s ability to blend tradition with modern creativity.

Murals brighten neighbourhood walls, independent studios nurture young designers and artists, and conversations with local guides provide context that cannot be found in travel brochures.

Every stop becomes an invitation to understand not only the artwork itself but also the people and cultural values behind it.

The experience concludes in a quieter setting beside the Atlantic Ocean. As the afternoon fades into evening, guests gather at a beach club to enjoy a locally inspired drink while watching the sun sink below the horizon.

The relaxed atmosphere offers time to reflect on the day’s discoveries, with the rhythm of the waves replacing the bustle of the city.

For international travellers, the culture walk presents an accessible introduction to Ghana beyond its famous landmarks.

Rather than focusing solely on monuments or museums, it celebrates creativity as a living, evolving part of everyday life.

In a city where art appears in galleries, workshops, public spaces and even funeral traditions, walking becomes more than a way to get around. It becomes a journey through the imagination, resilience and cultural richness that continue to define Accra.

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Sights and Sounds

Above the Capital: Discovering Accra Through a Hot Air Balloon Adventure

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Cities reveal their true character from the ground, but they tell an entirely different story from the sky.

Imagine watching the first rays of sunlight wash over Accra’s coastline, the city’s skyline gradually coming to life, while a colourful hot air balloon drifts quietly above it all.

It is a perspective few people have experienced—one that could redefine how visitors discover Ghana’s bustling capital.

Known for its energetic markets, lively beaches, historic landmarks and thriving arts scene, Accra has long attracted travellers seeking authentic West African experiences. Yet most adventures unfold at street level.

A hot air balloon tour introduces a fresh dimension, replacing traffic noise with silence and transforming familiar neighbourhoods into a sweeping landscape of colour, architecture and coastline.

Unlike helicopters or sightseeing planes, hot air balloons move gently with the wind, creating a calm and immersive journey. There is no rush from one attraction to another.

Instead, passengers are encouraged to slow down and appreciate the city’s geography, from the Atlantic shoreline stretching into the distance to the mosaic of homes, business districts, and green spaces that define modern Accra.

The experience also highlights how tourism continues to evolve in Ghana. Travellers increasingly seek memorable activities rather than simply checking landmarks off an itinerary.

Experiences that combine adventure, photography, and storytelling have become particularly attractive to younger visitors and international tourists looking for something distinctive.

Viewed from above, Accra reveals striking contrasts. Contemporary developments stand alongside historic communities, while busy roads weave towards the coast where fishing traditions continue much as they have for generations.

This aerial perspective offers more than beautiful scenery; it tells the story of a city balancing rapid growth with enduring cultural identity.

For photographers and content creators, a balloon flight provides an unrivalled canvas. The changing light, expansive horizons, and uninterrupted views create opportunities to capture images rarely seen in travel brochures. Every journey becomes unique, shaped by weather conditions, the direction of the wind, and the time of day.

As Ghana works to strengthen its position as one of Africa’s leading tourism destinations, experiences like hot air balloon tours reflect a growing emphasis on experiential travel.

Visitors are no longer satisfied with simply seeing a destination—they want to feel connected to it in unexpected ways.

Floating above Accra offers precisely that connection. It invites travellers to pause, look beyond the city’s busy rhythm and appreciate its beauty from an entirely new perspective.

Sometimes the best way to understand a place is not by walking its streets, but by quietly rising above them.

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Taste GH

A Food Lover’s Guide to Ghana’s Best Street Eats

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The quickest way to understand Ghana isn’t by visiting a museum—it’s by following the irresistible aroma drifting from a busy roadside food stall.

Across the country, street food is more than a convenient meal; it is a celebration of community, tradition and unforgettable flavours.

A perfect place to begin is waakye, Ghana’s famous combination of rice and beans cooked with sorghum leaves.

Served with spicy black pepper sauce, fried plantain, boiled eggs, spaghetti, gari and tender meat or fish, every plate offers a satisfying mix of textures and flavours that keeps people coming back for more.

Another favourite is kelewele, cubes of ripe plantain seasoned with ginger, garlic and chilli before being fried until caramelised.

Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, its sweet-and-spicy aroma fills the evening streets, making it one of Ghana’s most-loved snacks. Plantains also provide fibre, potassium and vitamins that support overall health.

Meat lovers should not leave without tasting chichinga, Ghana’s version of grilled kebabs. Coated in a fragrant blend of spices and cooked over glowing charcoal, the smoky flavour is impossible to resist. It is a familiar sight at roadside grills, especially after sunset.

For breakfast, many Ghanaians turn to koko and koose.

The warm millet porridge, lightly spiced with ginger and cloves, pairs beautifully with crispy bean fritters, creating a nourishing meal rich in fibre and plant-based protein.

No street food adventure is complete without bofrot. These fluffy fried dough balls, lightly sweetened and golden brown, are enjoyed as a snack with tea or fresh fruit juice and are a favourite at family gatherings and neighbourhood bakeries.

From bustling city corners to small-town markets, Ghana’s street food tells stories of hospitality, heritage and everyday life.

Every bite offers visitors a delicious introduction to the country’s rich culinary identity.

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