Tourism
African-Americans Share Why They Chose Ghana For Good: ‘People Went Out In Chains, We Came Back In Crowns’
Ghana’s landmark “Year of Return” campaign continues to reshape the country’s relationship with the African diaspora. A growing number of African-Americans are now investing, settling, and building new lives in the West African nation.
A new BBC World Service documentary, The Return, explores this accelerating migration — one rooted in history, identity, and a search for home.
The documentary opens in Cape Coast, where the haunting stone walls of Cape Coast Castle still hold the memory of millions of enslaved Africans forced through its “Door of No Return.” For many African-Americans visiting Ghana, that doorway is not just a symbol of the past, but a point of reconnection.
“It’s always a gut-wrenching experience,” the narrator says, standing on the castle’s worn white grounds. “But for Black people from the U.S., visiting a place like this can take on a whole new level of significance.”
That significance is precisely what Ghana tapped into in 2019 with the launch of the Year of Return, a government-backed initiative inviting descendants of the transatlantic slave trade to reconnect with the continent — and, for many, to come home. The campaign sparked a wave of pilgrimages, emotional homecomings, and eventually, permanent relocations.
“When they said, ‘Black people, come back,’ it hit me deeply,” one returnee explains in the documentary. “People went out in chains. We want them to come back in crowns.”
According to available data, more than 1,500 African-Americans have since moved to Ghana permanently. The number is expected to rise under the government’s ongoing 10-year Beyond the Return program.
Among them is Dr. Ashley Milton, an environmental scientist from Los Angeles who now lives in Accra’s lively Kuku Hill neighborhood. She narrates much of the documentary, offering both personal insight and professional perspective.
The documentary also features the story of Morris Beers, who moved from Los Angeles in 2020. His turning point came during a conversation in the U.S.
“Someone told me, ‘If you feel that strongly about Africa, why don’t you go live there?’” he recalled. “I thought about it and said, ‘You know what — I love it there. I can live there. No problem.’”
For many, the decision to relocate is about far more than geography. It is a reclaiming of identity, a rejection of racial hostility in the U.S., and a search for a community that feels like home.

But the documentary does not romanticize the journey. It acknowledges adjustment challenges, cultural gaps, and the emotional weight of confronting the past in places like Cape Coast Castle, where one returnee described feeling as though “the ancestors were searing into my body.”
Still, the migration trend is unmistakable, and growing.
Ghana’s government sees it not only as a cultural opportunity, but as an economic and diplomatic one, strengthening ties between Africa and its global diaspora.
The riveting documentary reflects how what began as a symbolic homecoming has evolved into one of the most significant diasporan movements of the 21st century.
The new movement is a modern return through the same doorway that once marked a point of no return.
Tourism
5 Things You Need to Know About Ghana’s Visa-Free Entry for All Africans
Ghana is set to become the fifth country in Africa to grant visa-free access to all African passport holders.
The landmark policy, announced by President John Mahama, will take effect on May 25, 2026 — coinciding with Africa Day celebrations.
Here is everything you need to know about the historic shift.
1. The Policy Takes Effect on Africa Day, May 25
President John Mahama announced the new visa-free regime during the first state visit of Zimbabwean President Emmerson Mnangagwa to Ghana, according to Foreign Affairs Minister Sam Okudzeto Ablakwa.
The policy will officially come into force on May 25 — a symbolic date chosen to align with Africa Day, the annual commemoration of the founding of the Organization of African Unity (now the African Union).
2. Ghana Becomes the 5th African Country to Offer Visa-Free Access to All Africans
With this move, Ghana joins a small but growing group of African nations that already allow visa-free entry to all African nationals. The other four countries are:
- Benin
- The Gambia
- Rwanda
- Seychelles
Ghana is now the fifth country on the continent to adopt such a policy, marking a significant shift in its travel and immigration framework.
3. The Policy Builds on a 2025 Promise That Did Not Materialize
The visa-free initiative was originally introduced under former President Nana Akufo-Addo, who announced visa-free travel for all African passport holders in his final State of the Nation Address in January 2025.
However, the measure — initially expected to take effect in 2025 — did not materialise as planned before the end of his tenure. The Mahama administration has now implemented the policy.
4. It Will Be Linked to a Broader E-Visa Rollout Next Month
The visa-free regime will not stand alone. It forms part of a broader reform of Ghana’s immigration system, including the introduction of a new e-visa platform expected to launch next month.
Authorities say the system is designed to streamline entry processes while maintaining border controls. The visa-free regime will form part of this broader e-visa system set to be launched by the Mahama administration next month, according to Foreign Affairs Minister Ablakwa.
5. The Policy Aims to Boost Tourism, Trade, and Pan-Africanism
Ablakwa noted that the policy is aimed at reinforcing Ghana’s position as the cradle of Pan-Africanism, while unlocking gains in tourism and intra-African trade through the reform.
The introduction of visa-free entry for all Africans is expected to support increased mobility across the continent, with potential implications for tourism, business travel, and regional integration. The move aligns with broader continental efforts to ease movement under frameworks such as the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA).
Bonus: Ghana Is Also Expanding Travel Access for Its Own Citizens
Ghana’s government has also been expanding travel access for its own citizens. The Foreign Ministry said 23 visa waiver agreements have been negotiated for Ghanaian passport holders since last year.
Summary Box:
| Policy | Visa-free entry for all African passport holders |
|---|---|
| Effective date | May 25 (Africa Day) |
| Announced by | President John Mahama |
| Number of African countries with similar policy | 5 (Benin, Gambia, Rwanda, Seychelles, Ghana) |
| Linked reform | New e-visa platform launching next month |
| Key goals | Pan-Africanism, tourism, intra-African trade, AfCFTA alignment |
Taste GH
Kelewele and Groundnuts: Ghana’s Spicy-Sweet Street Snack Everyone Loves
The scent arrives before the snack itself—warm ginger, pepper, and caramelized plantain drifting through the evening air in Accra. Follow that irresistible aroma and you’ll likely find a small street stall serving one of Ghana’s most beloved bites: kelewele with fried groundnuts.
Kelewele begins with ripe plantains cut into small cubes and tossed in a lively blend of spices—usually ginger, garlic, pepper, and a hint of salt.
Once lowered into hot oil, the plantain turns golden and crisp at the edges while remaining soft and sweet inside. The result is a snack that balances heat, sweetness, and smoky richness in a single mouthful.
But kelewele rarely travels alone. A handful of crunchy fried groundnuts—peanuts roasted until fragrant—often accompanies the dish.
Their nutty bite complements the spiced plantain perfectly, adding texture and depth to every serving. Locals know the rhythm well: a toothpick in hand, a paper wrap of kelewele in the other, and laughter shared with friends on a warm night.
Across Ghana, kelewele vendors appear as evening falls. Outside busy markets, near roadside corners, or beside lively bus stops, small frying pans sizzle under the glow of streetlights.
Office workers stop by on their way home, students gather after lectures, and late-night travelers grab a portion before continuing their journey.
For visitors, tasting kelewele is an introduction to Ghana’s vibrant street food culture—simple ingredients transformed into something memorable. For Ghanaians, it’s comfort food wrapped in nostalgia, a snack that carries the flavors of home.
@chefabbys KELEWELE might just be Ghana's best Street Food🇬🇭✨! We need to position it and give it even more credit ! It's easy , fast, extremely delicious to make. I made this in bulk hence the quantity of the spices All you need is Pepper Ginger Onion Red chillies Hwentia Cloves Calabash nutmeg EFOM WISA (alligator pepper ) Oil #FoodTiktok #fyp #foryou #virall ♬ With You (feat. Omah Lay) – Davido
Whether enjoyed after sunset or as a quick bite during a city stroll, kelewele and fried groundnuts remain a delicious symbol of Ghana’s everyday culinary magic.
Sights and Sounds
Art and Energy in Accra: From Museum Masterpieces to Makola Market Buzz
The morning light over Accra falls softly across the stately grounds of the National Museum of Ghana. A few schoolchildren chatter beneath the trees, their voices echoing faintly against the museum’s pale walls.
Inside, quiet halls hold centuries of Ghanaian creativity—wooden sculptures carved with patient skill, bold textiles alive with color, and masks whose expressions seem to carry stories from generations past.
It’s the kind of place where time slows, inviting visitors to look more closely and listen to the country’s cultural heartbeat.
Step through the galleries and Ghana’s artistic journey unfolds. Intricately carved stools, ceremonial regalia, and traditional instruments reveal how art has long been woven into daily life. Sunlight filters through high windows, glancing off brass ornaments and beads once worn by royalty.
Visitors wander from display to display, pausing to study the details—symbols etched into wood, patterns stitched into cloth, fragments of history preserved with care. The museum feels calm and reflective, a welcome pause from the city’s busy rhythm.
But just a short drive away, the tempo changes entirely.
At Makola Market the air vibrates with movement. Traders call out prices over the hum of conversation.
Fabrics ripple in bright cascades of orange, turquoise, and deep indigo. The scent of smoked fish drifts through narrow lanes while baskets overflow with fresh peppers, tomatoes, and ginger. Here, Accra shows its everyday energy.
Visitors quickly realize Makola is more than a place to shop—it’s a living theater of commerce and community.
Women balance bowls of goods with remarkable grace, bargaining unfolds with good-natured laughter, and every stall offers something different: handmade sandals, woven baskets, shimmering jewelry, and neatly folded wax prints waiting to become tomorrow’s outfit. The colors alone can keep you wandering for hours.
Together, the museum and Makola Market capture two sides of Ghana’s story. One preserves heritage in quiet halls; the other keeps culture alive in the open air, vibrant and unscripted.
Experiencing both in a single day gives travelers a fuller sense of the city—its creativity, its resilience, and its warmth.
Leave Makola in the late afternoon and the sounds of the market linger in your ears: laughter, bargaining, music from a passing radio.
It’s a reminder that in Accra, culture isn’t just displayed behind glass—it’s happening all around you.
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