Arts and GH Heritage
Why the Way You Fold Your Fugu Hat Sends a Powerful Message
In Ghana’s Upper East Region, a seemingly simple fold of fabric can speak louder than words. Wear your fugu hat the wrong way, and you might just find yourself paying a fine — in goats, sheep, or even a cow.
The fugu, also known as batakari, is a handwoven smock beloved across Ghana. But it’s the matching hat — soft, flexible, and worn like a beanie — that carries a traditional code many outsiders overlook.
Depending on how you fold its topmost part, you could be signalling loyalty to a chief, declaring friendship with all, or, dangerously, claiming spiritual power you don’t possess.
Isaaka Munkaila, a smock dealer with 25 years of experience in Bolgatanga’s fugu market, knows the rules well. He demonstrates the styles one by one.
First, fold the hat’s tip to the back. “That is how chiefs wear it,” he says. “It says: ‘I have many followers. I am a head of community.’” An ordinary person wearing it that way in a chief’s palace risks being seen as a rival. The penalty? Depending on the traditional area, a goat, sheep, or cow.
But not all chiefs are quick to punish. Naab Sierig Soore Sobil IV, divisional chief of Pelungu in the Nabdam district, says ignorance can be a defence.
“If someone from the south comes to my palace wearing it like that, I will correct him and teach him. But if a local does it, the elders will demand a fine — to deter others.”
Fold the tip to point skyward, and you’re safe. That’s the everyday style for ordinary people. “It simply acknowledges God’s presence everywhere,” Munkaila says. Fold it to the left or right, and you’re saying: “I belong with everyone — young and old.”

The most dangerous fold? Flat onto the forehead. That style is reserved for spiritually powerful individuals — those with “juju.”
Wear it without the backing of traditional spiritual strength, Munkaila warns, and someone stronger might test you. “You don’t wear it that way if you don’t have the powers.”
While no recorded harm has come from a wrong fold, chiefs have scolded and sanctioned offenders. In the Upper East Region, fines remain small, chiefs acknowledging poverty and changing times. Further north, in the Northern Region, customs are stricter.
For most Ghanaians who grow up with these traditions, the code is second nature. But for visitors, the fugu hat is a quiet reminder: in the north, fashion carries meaning — and sometimes consequences.
Arts and GH Heritage
The Ghana Experience That Lets You Create Culture
There’s a moment, somewhere between shaping wet clay with your hands and watching it harden under the sun, when Ghana stops being a destination and starts becoming a conversation.
It’s in that quiet exchange — between visitor and craft, between curiosity and tradition — that the country reveals itself most honestly.
A growing wave of immersive travel experiences is inviting visitors to step beyond sightseeing and into making.
Across a curated seven-day journey, participants move through artisanal spaces where heritage is not displayed behind glass but practiced daily.
In pottery workshops, the rhythm of the wheel echoes techniques preserved over generations. In batik studios, fabric becomes storytelling — each motif layered with symbolism, memory, and identity.
And in black soap making, there’s a return to the basics: ash, oils, patience, and knowledge passed hand to hand.

These experiences unfold alongside excursions that ground the journey in Ghana’s ecological and urban contrasts — from the suspended canopy walkways of Kakum National Park to the kinetic energy of Accra. But it is the time spent with artisans that lingers longest.
In many ways, this is a quiet resistance to the fast pace of modern tourism. It asks visitors to slow down, to listen, and to participate. For Ghanaians, it’s a renewed appreciation of crafts often overlooked in everyday life.
For international travellers, it’s an invitation to understand culture not as performance, but as practice.
By the end of the week, what visitors carry home is more than souvenirs. It’s a tactile memory — shaped, dyed, and stirred by hand — of a place where tradition is still alive, and still evolving.
Arts and GH Heritage
Poetra Asantewa and the Beautiful Contradictions of Accra
By the time a trotro rattles from a quiet Accra suburb into the dense energy of Jamestown, an entire theatre of human experience has already unfolded.
Hawkers negotiate through traffic with impossible grace, passengers exchange sharp political commentary between stops, and handwritten slogans on taxis preach survival, faith, and hustle.
For spoken word artist Ama Asantewa Diaka, these fleeting encounters are not background noise; they are raw creative material.
The poet, widely known as Poetra Asantewa, describes Accra as “trying to kill me and save me at the same time” — a line that captures the uneasy rhythm of Ghana’s capital more accurately than any tourism brochure could.
It is a city where frustration and invention exist side by side. The same traffic congestion, unstable electricity, and overcrowded transport systems that exhaust residents also shape one of West Africa’s most vibrant contemporary art scenes.
That contradiction has become central to a generation of Accra’s artists, many of whom transform social pressure into performance, fashion, film, and music.
In neighbourhoods like Jamestown, murals climb colonial-era walls while poets perform beside fishermen’s canoes and experimental musicians rehearse through power cuts. Creativity here is rarely detached from daily struggle.
Poetra’s reflections, shared during conversations around the documentary Accra Power, reveal a city constantly remixing itself. Her inspiration does not emerge from isolation or silence, but from movement — from overheard conversations, crowded buses, and the emotional tension of urban life.
In Accra, art is not merely produced. It is survived, negotiated, and carried home through traffic at dusk.
Arts and GH Heritage
How Johana Malédon Turned Movement Into Resistance
The words arrived before the movement did—cold, clinical, almost accusatory—flashing across an LED screen as if attempting to pin a living body into fixed meaning.
Then Johana Malédon stepped into the light and quietly dismantled every label in sight.
At the 2026 Market for African Performing Arts, Malédon’s conceptual solo became one of the festival’s most unsettling and memorable interventions, not because it shouted, but because it resisted.
Her body moved in fragments and spirals, sometimes surrendering to the language projected beside her, sometimes rebelling against it with startling precision.
The LED screen behaved like an authority figure—naming, interrupting, categorising. The dancer answered with ambiguity.
In many African societies, identity is often negotiated publicly: through language, tribe, nationality, gender, class, and even accent. Ghana is no exception. From everyday assumptions tied to surnames and ethnicity to social expectations around womanhood and respectability, labels shape how people are seen long before they speak for themselves. Malédon’s performance exposed that tension with rare clarity.
What made the work compelling was its refusal to offer resolution. Instead, it suggested that liberation may exist in remaining undefined. The body, constantly shifting, became evidence against permanence itself.
The technology never overwhelmed the performance. If anything, the glowing screen mirrored the modern world—social media feeds, bureaucratic forms, algorithmic identities—all demanding instant definition. Malédon responded with something stubbornly human: contradiction, vulnerability, and movement that could not be neatly translated.
In that refusal lay the performance’s deepest provocation.
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