Sights and Sounds
Before the Cedi: The Fascinating Journey of Money in Ghana
Long before banknotes and coins filled wallets across Ghana, trade in local markets relied on something far simpler: tiny white shells. Known as cowries, these shells once served as one of the most widely used forms of money in the region that later became the Gold Coast. They passed from hand to hand in busy markets, paying for food, cloth, and daily essentials.
But the story of Ghana’s currency is also a story of power, independence, and national identity.
When the British consolidated their colonial rule over the Gold Coast, the traditional system of cowry-based trade gradually gave way to a European monetary framework. The colonial administration introduced pounds, shillings, and pence—currencies managed by the West African Currency Board and circulated across several British territories in West Africa.
For many people, the new system was complicated and unfamiliar, yet it became the official means of exchange throughout the colonial era.
Everything began to change after Ghana became the first sub-Saharan African country to gain independence in 1957 under the leadership of Kwame Nkrumah. A year later, the newly established Bank of Ghana introduced the country’s first national currency: the Ghana pound.
Although the Ghana pound symbolized political independence, it still followed the British-style system of pounds, shillings, and pence. The real break from colonial monetary traditions came in 1965, when the country adopted a decimal system.
That year, Ghana introduced the cedi and pesewa, replacing the old pound-based structure entirely. The new currency was more than a financial reform—it was a powerful symbol of national pride. The notes carried the portrait of President Nkrumah, reflecting the optimism of a young nation shaping its own future.
Even the name “cedi” carried historical meaning. Derived from the Akan word “sɛdeɛ,” meaning cowry shell, it paid tribute to the shells that once fueled commerce across the region centuries earlier.
Political changes soon reshaped the currency again. After Nkrumah was overthrown in 1966, the government introduced a “new cedi” in 1967. This redesign removed Nkrumah’s portrait and replaced it with national symbols such as the Ghana coat of arms, the Independence Arch, and the Adome Bridge—images meant to reflect the country’s broader identity.
Over the decades that followed, inflation steadily pushed prices upward. Everyday purchases often required thousands of cedis, making the currency increasingly cumbersome to use.
In 2007, the Bank of Ghana introduced the modern Ghana cedi, removing four zeros from the old notes. Under the reform, 10,000 old cedis became one new cedi, simplifying transactions and restoring confidence in the currency.
From cowry shells in bustling markets to modern banknotes, Ghana’s monetary history mirrors the nation’s broader journey. It reflects colonial influence, the struggle for independence, political change, and economic adaptation.
In many ways, the story of the cedi is not just about money. It is about how a country continually reshapes its identity while holding onto echoes of its past—even in the name of its currency.
Sights and Sounds
Azonto: The Ghanaian Street Dance That Sparked a Global Movement
Long before playlists were filled with Afrobeats and dance floors pulsed to Amapiano, a different rhythm captured global attention. It didn’t start in luxury studios or international charts. It started on the streets of Ghana.
Azonto wasn’t just a song. It was a movement.
In the early 2010s, young people in southern Ghana—particularly within Ga communities around Accra—began transforming a traditional dance known as panlogo into something new. Panlogo already carried a strong identity: expressive hand gestures, rhythmic footwork, and movements that told everyday stories.
But a new generation reimagined it.
They sped it up, added humour, and turned everyday activities into dance gestures—mimicking phone calls, driving, washing clothes, or even acting out jokes. The result was Azonto: playful, expressive, and instantly addictive.
Soon the streets became stages.
Ghanaian musicians quickly caught onto the energy. Artists like Sarkodie, E.L, Gasmilla, and Stay Jay began weaving the dance into their music and performances. Tracks built around the dance flooded local airwaves, parties, and clubs.
Azonto was no longer just something you watched. It was something you joined.
Social media and early YouTube dance clips helped push the movement further. Tutorials popped up everywhere, showing fans how to master the signature gestures and rhythmic footwork.
Then the wave crossed borders.
UK-based Ghanaian artist Fuse ODG played a key role in carrying Azonto beyond West Africa. After spending time in Ghana and working with producer Killbeatz, he returned to the United Kingdom with a clearer understanding of the sound and culture surrounding the dance.
What followed helped ignite a global craze.
Songs built around Azonto rhythms began circulating internationally. One of them even broke the dance down step-by-step, making it easy for anyone—anywhere—to learn the moves. Soon, dance floors from London to Paris were filled with people mimicking the playful gestures born on the streets of Accra.
The internet amplified the spread.
Videos of Azonto dancers began appearing from cities across Europe and North America. What had started as a local reinterpretation of a traditional Ga dance was now part of global pop culture.
As often happens when trends explode, imitations followed. Nigerian duo P-Square introduced a dance called Alingo, which many fans saw as heavily inspired by Azonto’s style and rhythm. Debates followed, but for many observers, the origin of the spark was already clear.
Azonto had already written its name into global dance history.
Today, newer sounds like Afrobeats and Amapiano dominate international charts, but Azonto’s influence still lingers in the way African music connects with dance culture worldwide. It proved that a local street movement—driven by creativity and community—could shape global trends.
For Ghana, Azonto was more than a viral moment. It was a cultural statement.
A reminder that sometimes the world’s next big wave doesn’t start in corporate boardrooms or international studios.
Sometimes it starts with a group of friends dancing in the streets of Accra.
Sights and Sounds
Where Twin Waters Meet the Forest: A Visit to Boti Falls
The first sound you notice is the water. Long before the falls come into view, the steady rush echoes through the forest, growing louder with every step down the stone staircase.
By the time the trees open and the mist touches your face, you understand why generations of visitors have paused here in quiet awe. At Boti Falls, nature does not whisper—it performs.
Located near Manya Krobo, about a two-hour drive from Accra, the falls are among Ghana’s most striking natural attractions. What makes them unusual is their twin streams.
Locals affectionately refer to them as a male and female pair, flowing side by side down the rock face before meeting in a pool below. During the rainy season, the two cascades thunder together with dramatic force, sending cool mist drifting across the surrounding forest.
Getting to the base of the falls is part of the adventure. Visitors descend nearly 250 steps carved into the hillside, a journey that feels like walking into a living green cathedral. Tall trees stretch overhead, birds call across the valley, and the scent of damp earth hangs in the air.
@_franciscaak Must see destinations in Ghana: Boti Waterfalls is located in the Eastern Region of Ghana at Boti. Add it to your itinerary of places to visit in Ghana ☺️ #thingstodo #ghana #waterfall #placestovisit #ghana #waterfalls #thingstodoinghana #traveltips #placestovisitinghana #ghanatiktok🇬🇭 #ghanatiktok #chasingwaterfalls #fyppp #traveltiktok #travel #CapCut ♬ Show Me Love (with Tyla) – WizTheMc & Tyla & bees & honey
The area around the falls offers more than a quick photo opportunity. Travelers often explore nearby attractions such as the towering “Umbrella Rock,” a massive rock formation balanced in a way that resembles an open umbrella.
Not far away is the famous three-headed palm tree—another curiosity that has become a favorite stop for photographers and hikers.
For many visitors, the real pleasure lies in simply slowing down. Some dip their feet in the cool water while others stretch out on nearby rocks and watch the spray drift through the sunlight. Families share picnics beneath the trees.
On weekends, the laughter of children mixes with the steady rhythm of the falling water.
There is also a cultural rhythm to the place. Residents of nearby communities have long treated the falls with quiet respect, regarding the surrounding forest as a place that deserves care and protection.
For travelers exploring Ghana, a trip to Boti Falls offers something refreshingly simple: a chance to stand close to the raw energy of water and rock. No elaborate explanation is needed. The sound of the falls says everything.
Sights and Sounds
The Night They Banned the Song: How a Highlife Guitar Felled a General and Renamed an Airport
Let me tell you about the most dangerous pop song in West African history. It wasn’t a protest anthem. It wasn’t a political rallying cry.
It was a gentle, hypnotic tune about a boy and his guitar, a melody so sweet it supposedly drifted into the mind of its creator from a spirit on a lonely Lagos beach.
And yet, for a brief and violent moment in 1967, the government of Ghana treated that song like an enemy battalion. They banned it from the airwaves. They hunted its echoes in dance halls. They tried to scrub it from the national memory.
Why? Because they believed a guitar riff had the power to bring down a regime.
This week, Ghana did something that sounds, on paper, like the most boring bureaucratic exercise imaginable.
They changed the name of the country’s main airport. Out goes Kotoka International Airport. In comes Accra International Airport. Just a new sign, right? A new letterhead for the immigration officers?
To understand why this name change matters—why it carries the weight of a country’s unresolved argument with itself—you have to go back to that banned song.
You have to understand the man whose name is being scrubbed from the arrivals hall, and the strange, musical conspiracy that ended his life.
The Hero, The Villain, and the Man on the Beach
General Emmanuel Kwasi Kotoka is a ghost who haunts modern Ghana. You can ask ten people about him and get ten different answers. In 1966, he was the soldier who led the coup that toppled Kwame Nkrumah, the country’s founding father and the great hope of African liberation.
To some, Kotoka was a liberator who saved Ghana from a dictator. To others, he was the man who broke the dream, who handed the country over to a future of instability.
Either way, he was the man in charge. And a year later, a group of junior officers decided he had to go.
They planned their attack. They chose a codename for their mission. In military history, you expect codenames to be things like “Desert Storm” or “Operation Thunderbolt.” Things that sound tough. Things that sound like victory.
@wearevinylplus Ghana’s airport name change has roots in something unexpected: music. A highlife hit became the soundtrack to one of the biggest political incidents in Ghana’s history Decades later, that musical ripple is still echoing. #ForTheNow #africanpolitics ♬ original sound – wearevinylplus
These young soldiers, likely with the radio crackling in their barracks, picked something else. They named their plot Operation Guitar Boy.
They named it after a song.
The Soundtrack of the Barracks
In 1966, a Nigerian highlife legend named Sir Victor Uwaifo released a track that would define an era. Guitar Boy was pure magic. It wasn’t just a hit; it was the sound of West Africa letting its hair down. That guitar line was everywhere.
It spilled out of the taxis crawling through Accra’s traffic. It floated from the palm-wine bars. It whistled from the lips of street vendors.
Uwaifo himself claimed the melody wasn’t entirely his own. He said a mermaid—a Mammy Wata figure—appeared to him on a beach in Lagos and gifted him the tune.
It was folklore set to music. It had nothing to do with politics. It had everything to do with the spirit of the moment.
And that spirit had seeped into the army barracks. When those young lieutenants dreamed of overthrowing a general, the song in their heads wasn’t a military march. It was Guitar Boy. They weren’t being poetic. They were just men of their time, using the language of their time to describe their ambition.
The plot failed. Kotoka was killed during the attempt at the Flamingo Nightclub in Accra. But when the government pieced together the conspiracy, they didn’t just see the guns and the plans. They saw the name. They saw the cultural infection.
Their response was to declare war on a song.
The Weapon Was a Melody
Guitar Boy was banned in Ghana.
Think about that for a second. Not a subversive text. Not a radical pamphlet. A highlife record. The state decided that this piece of art was so intertwined with the rebellion that it had to be silenced. They treated a melody like a weapon.
They understood, perhaps better than we do today, that culture isn’t separate from politics. It is the soil in which politics grows.
For decades after, the airport bore Kotoka’s name. To some, it was a fitting tribute to a soldier. To others, it was a daily reminder of a wound, a forced acceptance of a man they saw as a traitor to the Nkrumah dream.
Every tourist who landed there, every citizen who returned home, walked through a gateway named for a coup.
Now, that gateway is simply Accra International. It is an attempt to let the airport be a place of arrival and departure, not a monument to a contested past. It is an attempt to step out of the shadow of 1966.
But the ghost of that story remains. And at its center is not a politician or a general, but a boy with a guitar.
It’s wild to think that a song, born from a mermaid’s whisper on a beach, ended up tangled in a coup, a ban, and the very name of a nation’s front door. It’s a reminder that history is rarely made by presidents and parliaments alone.
Sometimes, it’s made by a young man humming a tune, a soldier with a radio, and a melody that refuses to be silenced.
Sir Victor Uwaifo never meant to start a revolution. He just wanted to play his guitar. But in Ghana, sixty years later, his riff is still echoing through the corridors of power.
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