Arts and GH Heritage
Fugu Goes to Milan: Ghana and Italy Eye Creative Economy Boom to Export Culture Beyond the Continent
When Ghanaian designer Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart stepped onto the Milan Fashion Week runway last January, he carried more than a collection of denim garments.
He carried a vision: that the voluminous, hand-woven smock known as fugu or batakari — a garment once worn by warriors and kings in northern Ghana — could find a new life on the global stage.
His show, which featured jackets with raglan sleeves, coat-capes, and cargo-pocketed trousers in “dirty-washed” denim, was inspired by the deconstructed forms of traditional Ghanaian attire. For Abbey-Hart, a graduate of Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design (IED) who previously worked for Calvin Klein, the collection was deeply personal. “Coming to Italy really gave me a big door of opportunity to understand what the world really asks for, as a designer,” he told the Associated Press.

Abbey-Hart’s debut was supported by the Afro Fashion Association, a non-profit founded by Michelle Francine Ngonmo that has worked with over 3,000 creatives of color over the past decade . But his success is not an isolated story. It is emerging as a cornerstone of a broader strategic push by Ghana and Italy to transform cultural heritage into economic power — taking garments like the fugu from ceremonial occasions in Accra to the fashion capitals of Europe and beyond.
A Diplomatic and Economic Imperative
The timing is deliberate. In February 2026, Ghana’s newly appointed Ambassador to Italy, Mona-Helen Kabuki Quartey, presented her credentials to President Sergio Mattarella at the Quirinale.
The ceremony marked not just a diplomatic formality, but a “renewed phase in the consolidation of bilateral relations,” with culture and tourism featuring prominently in discussions.
Ambassador Quartey’s mission arrives amid growing recognition in Accra that the creative economy — fashion, textiles, arts, and design — represents a significant untapped export sector. Italy, home to some of the world’s most powerful fashion houses and a global leader in luxury goods, is the ideal partner.
The Italian government has signaled its interest in Ghana as a “growing market and a natural gateway to the wider West African region”.

The diplomatic push comes as Ghanaian creatives are making visible inroads into the Italian cultural scene. In May, acclaimed Ghanaian painter Amoako Boafo will open his first solo exhibition in Italy at Venice’s Museo di Palazzo Grimani, coinciding with the 61st Venice Biennale. The show, organized by Gagosian Gallery, will see Boafo engage with Renaissance portraiture traditions — a powerful example of cultural exchange flowing in both directions.
From Ceremony to Commerce
The fugu’s journey from northern Ghana to Milanese runways reflects a deeper ambition. For too long, observers argue, Ghana’s heritage textiles have been reserved for Independence Day celebrations, festivals, and ceremonial photographs — “reduced to a ceremony when it could be an industry,” as Ing. Prof. Douglas Boateng recently wrote.
President John Dramani Mahama has emerged as an unlikely champion of this cause. Speaking after a state visit to Zambia in February, Mahama noted that his deliberate choice to wear the fugu on international stages had sparked a surge in global interest.
“By the power of social media, I have given them branding and marketing they could never have dreamed of,” he said. “I’m sure searches for fugu, batakari, and smock have gone very high”.
Mahama revealed that all his clothing is made in Ghana by Ghanaian designers, and he has set his sights on taking the smock to the United Nations as “a symbol of African identity, culture, and self-confidence”.
The Industrial Challenge
Yet transforming cultural visibility into sustainable industry requires more than diplomatic gestures and runway moments.
The global winter wear market is valued at over $300 billion annually, with premium outerwear brands like Canada Goose and Moncler built on climate-driven demand in North America, Europe, and East Asia. The African diaspora, estimated at more than 170 million people living in cold-weather countries, represents a ready market seeking authentic cultural connection.
The challenge is technical as well as commercial. Traditional fugu, woven from thick cotton strips, is designed for the harmattan winds of northern Ghana — not Helsinki winters or Chicago blizzards. Industrial adaptation will require innovation: thermal linings, wool-infused blends, water-resistant treatments, and structured designs that preserve the garment’s distinctive striped aesthetic while making it functional for global consumers.
Proponents argue that the economic potential justifies the investment. A modest export target of 500,000 premium winter fugu coats annually, at an average retail price of US$250, would generate US$125 million in revenue. Add scarves, gloves, corporate attire, and school uniforms, and the ecosystem multiplies, creating thousands of jobs across farming, weaving, tailoring, and logistics — particularly in northern Ghana, where youth unemployment remains high.
A Growing Cultural Ecosystem
The Italy-Ghana cultural partnership extends well beyond fashion. In January, Ghanaian artists and cultural practitioners led an international project in Lecce, Italy, dedicated to “decolonising heritage and liberating the imagination.” Organized by Ramdom, Museo Castromediano, and Ghana’s Artlife Matters, the programme featured workshops, exhibitions, and a public parade exploring how tangible and intangible heritage can become tools for reclaiming narratives shaped by colonial structures.
Artist Kwame Akoto-Bamfo created a six-foot concrete totem representing memory and ancestry, while the “Echoes of Home” workshop brought together foreign residents in Lecce for a participatory healing process. Luigi Di Luca, Director of Museo Castromediano, stressed the museum’s commitment to redefining its role within the community and expanding international collaboration.
These initiatives build on earlier collaborations. In 2024, Ghanaian playwright Latif Abubakar partnered with the Italian Embassy to stage “The Licence,” an Afrocentric adaptation of a work by Italian Nobel laureate Luigi Pirandello. Then-Ambassador Daniela d’Orlandi expressed hope that the partnership would “set an example for other foreign countries to follow” .
The Road Ahead
As Ghana hosts a week-long celebration of its 69th Independence Day in Rome this March, complete with trade fairs showcasing textiles, music, and cuisine, the cultural diplomacy offensive is in full swing . But the ultimate measure of success will be commercial.
For designers like Victor Hart, the path forward is clear despite persistent challenges.
“Sometimes, before you even get to the room for the interview, you’ve been disqualified already,” he said of the obstacles facing Black creatives in Italy. “Take away the color, take away what I represent, just look at the job”.
His message resonates beyond fashion. As Ghana and Italy deepen their cultural partnership, the goal is not merely to export garments but to export a vision: that heritage, when industrialized with intention, can compete on the global stage. The fugu has survived the harmattan for centuries.
Now, it is being engineered for winter.
Arts and GH Heritage
Ghana’s Art Boom at Risk Without State Investment, Experts Warn
Calls for stronger government investment in Ghana’s arts sector took centre stage in Accra last week, as leading artists and academics warned that the country’s cultural momentum could stall without urgent support for infrastructure and preservation.
The appeal came during a conference organized by Foundation for Contemporary Art Ghana in collaboration with TRAFO Centre for Contemporary Art. The gathering brought together artists, curators, students and cultural stakeholders to assess the state of Ghana’s art industry and its future direction.
Despite Ghana’s growing international profile in contemporary art, speakers argued that progress has largely been driven by individual effort rather than coordinated state backing.
Karikacha Seidou, Dean of the Faculty of Art at Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology, described the current moment as a “golden age of art,” but cautioned that the absence of sustained public investment could undermine these gains.
He pointed to the limited number of museums and galleries, alongside the neglect of public art, as key challenges facing the sector. According to him, strengthening institutional support would not only preserve Ghana’s cultural heritage but also create opportunities for emerging artists and educate younger generations.
Seidou also placed Ghana’s artistic achievements within a broader historical context, noting that many of today’s successes build on cultural foundations laid during the era of Kwame Nkrumah. He cited the global recognition of Ibrahim Mahama, who topped the ArtReview Power 100 list in 2025, as evidence of the country’s growing influence on the international art stage.
Attention also turned to the fate of Ghana’s public monuments. Adwoa Amoah, co-director of the Foundation for Contemporary Art Ghana, highlighted how several historical monuments commissioned in the early post-independence period have either disappeared or fallen into obscurity following political transitions.
She said a recent exhibition by the foundation had reignited debate over whether such monuments should be restored or replaced with new forms of public art that reflect contemporary realities. For Amoah, public art remains central to shaping national identity and fostering civic dialogue.
Participants agreed that without deliberate policies and investment, Ghana risks losing parts of its cultural memory even as its contemporary art scene gains global acclaim.
The conference underscored a growing consensus: that safeguarding the nation’s artistic legacy requires not only creative energy but also sustained institutional commitment.
Arts and GH Heritage
Steps, Stories, and Swagger: The Rise of Azonto from Ghana to the World
The beat lands first—sharp, playful, impossible to ignore. Then the body answers.
A hand flicks like it’s texting, feet shuffle with sly precision, shoulders roll in rhythm that feels both spontaneous and deeply familiar.
This is azonto, a dance that leapt from the streets of Accra to the global stage, carrying with it the humor, resilience, and imagination of a generation.
From Everyday Gestures to Dancefloor Language
Before it became a global craze, azonto lived quietly in the neighborhoods of Accra. Its earliest roots can be traced to “Apaa,” a dance style popular among young people in the early 2000s, especially in coastal communities like Jamestown.
Apaa was expressive and theatrical, built on mimicking everyday activities—washing clothes, driving, boxing—turned into exaggerated, rhythmic gestures.
Azonto took that foundation and sharpened it. Dancers began to invent moves that told micro-stories: a fisherman casting his net, a student scribbling in class, a hustler counting money. It became a kind of street language—wordless, witty, and instantly understood.
The Sound That Carried It
As the dance evolved, so did its soundtrack. The rise of Ghana’s contemporary hiplife and Afrobeats scene gave azonto its pulse.
Artists like Sarkodie, EL, and Fuse ODG created tracks that matched the dance’s energy—playful yet precise, rooted yet modern.
Fuse ODG’s global hit Azonto became a turning point. Suddenly, what started in Accra’s streets was being danced in London clubs, New York parties, and YouTube tutorials watched across continents. Social media amplified it further, turning local creativity into a worldwide conversation.
Improvisation, Identity, and Humor
What makes azonto stand out isn’t just the rhythm—it’s the storytelling. Each dancer brings personality into the movement. There’s no single “correct” version. Instead, azonto thrives on improvisation.
In Ghana, the dance became a mirror of daily life. People used it to comment on politics, celebrate small wins, or simply make each other laugh.
A dancer might mimic a tailor at work or act out a scene from a busy market. The humor is subtle but sharp, often layered with social commentary.
It also reflects a broader cultural trait: adaptability. Ghanaian youth, especially in urban centers, have long used creativity as a way to navigate change. Azonto embodies that spirit—light on its feet, quick to evolve, always responsive to the moment.
From Local Vibe to Global Movement
By the early 2010s, azonto had crossed borders with ease. Dance crews uploaded routines online, international artists borrowed its moves, and the diaspora carried it into new cultural spaces. Yet even as it spread, it never lost its Ghanaian core.
Back home, azonto continues to shift and reinvent itself. New variations emerge, blending with other dance styles while keeping that signature storytelling edge. At parties, weddings, and street jams, it remains a crowd favorite—an invitation to participate rather than just watch.
What Azonto Means Today
Today, azonto is more than a dance; it’s a symbol of Ghanaian creativity on the global stage. It represents a moment when local expression traveled far without losing its identity. For many Ghanaians, it carries pride—the knowledge that something born from everyday life could resonate worldwide.
It also reminds people of joy. In a fast-moving world, azonto insists on play, on laughter, on connection. You don’t need perfect technique to join in—just a willingness to move and tell your own story.
And that might be its greatest legacy: wherever the beat drops, azonto makes space for everyone.
Arts and GH Heritage
When Sound Becomes Memory: A Night of Ancestral Music at Togo Jazz Festival
Some performances entertain. Others feel like they remember something for you.
At the 2026 edition of the Togo Jazz Festival, Esinam Dogbatse and Sibusile Xaba stepped onto the stage and dissolved the usual boundaries between artist and audience.
What unfolded wasn’t easily contained within genre—it felt closer to a ritual, one shaped by memory, migration, and the quiet persistence of ancestral sound.
For many in West Africa, music has never been just a performance. It is communication—between generations, between the physical and the unseen.
Esinam’s layered flutes and electronic textures carried a kind of weightless clarity, while Xaba’s guitar, grounded and insistent, echoed traditions that predate modern borders. Together, they created a conversation that felt both deeply personal and widely shared.
What stood out most was their use of repetition—not as a musical crutch, but as an invocation. Cyclical rhythms and chants built slowly, drawing listeners inward rather than pushing outward.

It mirrored something familiar in Ghanaian musical traditions, from the call-and-response of highlife to the spiritual intensity of traditional drumming circles.
The difference here was the medium: synthesizers hummed alongside organic percussion, proving that heritage doesn’t resist evolution—it adapts.
In a time when African music is often packaged for global consumption, this performance moved in the opposite direction.
It asked for patience. It asked for presence. And in doing so, it reminded its audience of something easy to forget: that sound, at its most powerful, doesn’t just travel across borders—it carries history with it.
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