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Arts and GH Heritage

Fugu Goes to Milan: Ghana and Italy Eye Creative Economy Boom to Export Culture Beyond the Continent

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When Ghanaian designer Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart stepped onto the Milan Fashion Week runway last January, he carried more than a collection of denim garments.

He carried a vision: that the voluminous, hand-woven smock known as fugu or batakari — a garment once worn by warriors and kings in northern Ghana — could find a new life on the global stage.

His show, which featured jackets with raglan sleeves, coat-capes, and cargo-pocketed trousers in “dirty-washed” denim, was inspired by the deconstructed forms of traditional Ghanaian attire. For Abbey-Hart, a graduate of Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design (IED) who previously worked for Calvin Klein, the collection was deeply personal. “Coming to Italy really gave me a big door of opportunity to understand what the world really asks for, as a designer,” he told the Associated Press.

Abbey-Hart’s debut was supported by the Afro Fashion Association, a non-profit founded by Michelle Francine Ngonmo that has worked with over 3,000 creatives of color over the past decade . But his success is not an isolated story. It is emerging as a cornerstone of a broader strategic push by Ghana and Italy to transform cultural heritage into economic power — taking garments like the fugu from ceremonial occasions in Accra to the fashion capitals of Europe and beyond.

A Diplomatic and Economic Imperative

The timing is deliberate. In February 2026, Ghana’s newly appointed Ambassador to Italy, Mona-Helen Kabuki Quartey, presented her credentials to President Sergio Mattarella at the Quirinale.

The ceremony marked not just a diplomatic formality, but a “renewed phase in the consolidation of bilateral relations,” with culture and tourism featuring prominently in discussions.

Ambassador Quartey’s mission arrives amid growing recognition in Accra that the creative economy — fashion, textiles, arts, and design — represents a significant untapped export sector. Italy, home to some of the world’s most powerful fashion houses and a global leader in luxury goods, is the ideal partner.

The Italian government has signaled its interest in Ghana as a “growing market and a natural gateway to the wider West African region”.

The diplomatic push comes as Ghanaian creatives are making visible inroads into the Italian cultural scene. In May, acclaimed Ghanaian painter Amoako Boafo will open his first solo exhibition in Italy at Venice’s Museo di Palazzo Grimani, coinciding with the 61st Venice Biennale. The show, organized by Gagosian Gallery, will see Boafo engage with Renaissance portraiture traditions — a powerful example of cultural exchange flowing in both directions.

From Ceremony to Commerce

The fugu’s journey from northern Ghana to Milanese runways reflects a deeper ambition. For too long, observers argue, Ghana’s heritage textiles have been reserved for Independence Day celebrations, festivals, and ceremonial photographs — “reduced to a ceremony when it could be an industry,” as Ing. Prof. Douglas Boateng recently wrote.

President John Dramani Mahama has emerged as an unlikely champion of this cause. Speaking after a state visit to Zambia in February, Mahama noted that his deliberate choice to wear the fugu on international stages had sparked a surge in global interest.

“By the power of social media, I have given them branding and marketing they could never have dreamed of,” he said. “I’m sure searches for fugu, batakari, and smock have gone very high”.

Mahama revealed that all his clothing is made in Ghana by Ghanaian designers, and he has set his sights on taking the smock to the United Nations as “a symbol of African identity, culture, and self-confidence”.

The Industrial Challenge

Yet transforming cultural visibility into sustainable industry requires more than diplomatic gestures and runway moments.

The global winter wear market is valued at over $300 billion annually, with premium outerwear brands like Canada Goose and Moncler built on climate-driven demand in North America, Europe, and East Asia. The African diaspora, estimated at more than 170 million people living in cold-weather countries, represents a ready market seeking authentic cultural connection.

The challenge is technical as well as commercial. Traditional fugu, woven from thick cotton strips, is designed for the harmattan winds of northern Ghana — not Helsinki winters or Chicago blizzards. Industrial adaptation will require innovation: thermal linings, wool-infused blends, water-resistant treatments, and structured designs that preserve the garment’s distinctive striped aesthetic while making it functional for global consumers.

Proponents argue that the economic potential justifies the investment. A modest export target of 500,000 premium winter fugu coats annually, at an average retail price of US$250, would generate US$125 million in revenue. Add scarves, gloves, corporate attire, and school uniforms, and the ecosystem multiplies, creating thousands of jobs across farming, weaving, tailoring, and logistics — particularly in northern Ghana, where youth unemployment remains high.

A Growing Cultural Ecosystem

The Italy-Ghana cultural partnership extends well beyond fashion. In January, Ghanaian artists and cultural practitioners led an international project in Lecce, Italy, dedicated to “decolonising heritage and liberating the imagination.” Organized by Ramdom, Museo Castromediano, and Ghana’s Artlife Matters, the programme featured workshops, exhibitions, and a public parade exploring how tangible and intangible heritage can become tools for reclaiming narratives shaped by colonial structures.

Artist Kwame Akoto-Bamfo created a six-foot concrete totem representing memory and ancestry, while the “Echoes of Home” workshop brought together foreign residents in Lecce for a participatory healing process. Luigi Di Luca, Director of Museo Castromediano, stressed the museum’s commitment to redefining its role within the community and expanding international collaboration.

These initiatives build on earlier collaborations. In 2024, Ghanaian playwright Latif Abubakar partnered with the Italian Embassy to stage “The Licence,” an Afrocentric adaptation of a work by Italian Nobel laureate Luigi Pirandello. Then-Ambassador Daniela d’Orlandi expressed hope that the partnership would “set an example for other foreign countries to follow” .

The Road Ahead

As Ghana hosts a week-long celebration of its 69th Independence Day in Rome this March, complete with trade fairs showcasing textiles, music, and cuisine, the cultural diplomacy offensive is in full swing . But the ultimate measure of success will be commercial.

For designers like Victor Hart, the path forward is clear despite persistent challenges.

“Sometimes, before you even get to the room for the interview, you’ve been disqualified already,” he said of the obstacles facing Black creatives in Italy. “Take away the color, take away what I represent, just look at the job”.

His message resonates beyond fashion. As Ghana and Italy deepen their cultural partnership, the goal is not merely to export garments but to export a vision: that heritage, when industrialized with intention, can compete on the global stage. The fugu has survived the harmattan for centuries.

Now, it is being engineered for winter.

Arts and GH Heritage

Jeffrey Nortey Turns National Theatre Into a Storytelling Universe at Sold-Out ‘3 Faces’ Show

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For one remarkable evening in Accra, Jeffrey Nortey proved that a single performer, armed with imagination, discipline, and a catalogue of unforgettable characters, could command one of Ghana’s most prestigious stages without relying on a lineup of supporting acts.

The third edition of 3 Faces of Jeffrey Nortey, held at the National Theatre on June 12, drew a capacity audience and delivered a multi-layered production that blended film, theatre, comedy and live performance into one immersive experience.

A Show That Started on Time and Set the Tone

Long before the scheduled start, patrons had begun filling the National Theatre despite heavy Friday traffic across the capital. Guests mingled, took photographs and settled into an atmosphere charged with anticipation.

Then came the first surprise. At exactly 7:15 p.m., the production began.

In an entertainment landscape where delayed starts are often expected, Nortey’s punctuality immediately signaled a commitment to professionalism and audience respect.

The evening opened with a cinematic experience rather than a traditional stage introduction. Massive screens transformed the auditorium into a futuristic digital world before premiering Here Comes The Bride, a film produced by Nortey and directed by Abyna Koblyn.

Starring Ben Affat, Serwaa Dosoo, Aaron Adatsi and Jeffrey Nortey, the film follows two friends attempting to help a heartbroken mechanic stop the woman he loves from getting married, only to find themselves in increasingly dangerous circumstances.

Audience members remained engaged throughout the screening, responding with laughter, suspense and applause.

Theatre Meets Reflection

Following the film, the production shifted seamlessly into live theatre.

Making his first stage appearance in a striking pink-tinted suit, Nortey welcomed the audience and acknowledged members of the film’s cast and crew before guiding the evening into a more reflective space.

One of the most emotional moments came when he paid tribute to the late Beverly Afaglo. Accompanied by a montage and a minute of silence, the tribute briefly transformed the mood inside the auditorium, reminding audiences of life’s fragility.

The theatrical segment that followed featured actress Monica in a performance exploring faith, disappointment, preparation and timing. Set within an office environment, the production challenged audiences to reflect on the difference between expectation and reality.

Many patrons later described the performance as both entertaining and deeply thought-provoking.

Dragon Steals the Night

The evening’s most anticipated segment belonged to Dragon, Nortey’s beloved comic character.

After a dramatic video sequence showing Dragon navigating heartbreak and personal transformation, audiences watched him ride through the streets of Accra on a motorcycle accompanied by fellow bikers before arriving at the National Theatre.

Moments later, LED screens opened to reveal Dragon on a motorcycle inside the auditorium itself.

The reaction was immediate and thunderous.

As music, fireworks and cheers filled the venue, Dragon launched into a high-energy set packed with humour, social commentary and audience interaction.

Special appearances by Nana Ama McBrown, Jeneral Ntatia, Parrot Mouth and musician EL elevated the segment further, creating some of the evening’s most memorable moments.

A Growing Creative Force

By 10 p.m., Nortey brought the production to a close with a heartfelt acknowledgement of sponsors, partners and supporters before recording his trademark audience selfie video.

Yet many attendees lingered long after the final bow.

The conversations continued in the aisles, foyers and outside the venue, suggesting that 3 Faces of Jeffrey Nortey had achieved something beyond entertainment.

With three successful editions behind him and another sold-out National Theatre performance completed, Jeffrey Nortey continues to strengthen his reputation as one of Ghana’s most inventive storytellers, blending film, theatre and character performance into a format that is increasingly becoming a cultural phenomenon.

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Arts and GH Heritage

Ghana Builds Its First Cinema Dedicated Entirely to African and Diasporic Films: The Falcon Rises in Berekuso

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Ghana is building its first cinema space dedicated exclusively to African and diasporic cinema, a landmark cultural project that aims to do more than screen films: it seeks to house and preserve a film culture that has existed for decades without a purpose-built institution to call home.

Named The Falcon Cinema, the project is currently under development in Berekuso by Studio NEiDA, an architecture practice co-founded by Fabiola Büchele, former Creative Director of Studio Francis Kéré, and Jeanne Autran-Edorh, who has trained at Herzog & de Meuron and Kéré’s studio. The studio previously curated Togo’s first pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale.

A Cinema Built From Ghanaian Earth

Inspired by the spatial organization of traditional Asante compounds, The Falcon is arranged as four earth-built structures surrounding a central courtyard. The venue will include two screening rooms, an outdoor cinema, communal spaces, a restaurant, and a film archive dedicated to African and diasporic cinema.

Constructed from locally sourced earth materials and topped with a palm-leaf thatched roof, the project combines passive ventilation strategies with contemporary screening facilities. The design prioritizes sustainability while honoring indigenous building traditions.

“The Falcon is not competing with a streaming subscription,” the project team noted. “It is making the case for cinema as a shared spatial experience.”

Programming With Rigo

The Falcon’s programming is led by Alice Otchere Johnson, a Ghanaian film critic and founder of AJ4short. Johnson is recognized as a Berlinale Talents 2026 fellow and was awarded the FIPRESCI Talent Press Award at Talents Durban 2025. Her involvement signals a commitment to curatorial excellence and a deep understanding of both African cinema and the global film landscape.

“This is what cultural infrastructure looks like when all the decisions are made from inside the culture it is meant to serve,” the project team stated.

Filling a Long-Standing Gap

The Falcon will become the first cinema space in Ghana dedicated to African cinema and independent films—an ambition the team describes as anything but minor.

“Ghana has a film culture, with directors, critics, and audiences who have been building that culture for decades, without a purpose-built institution to house it,” the project revealed.

With screening rooms, an outdoor cinema, and a dedicated film archive focused on African storytelling, The Falcon aims to celebrate and preserve Africa’s rich cultural and cinematic heritage while providing a home for the next generation of filmmakers and audiences.

More Than a Cinema

Beyond film exhibition, The Falcon is designed as a community space for public gathering, archival preservation, and cultural exchange. The inclusion of communal areas and a restaurant reflects the traditional Asante compound’s role as a social hub—a place where people come together not just for a specific activity, but to share space, food, and conversation.

For a continent whose stories have too often been told by outsiders, The Falcon represents a different vision: a cinema built from local earth, programmed by local critics, and rooted in local architectural traditions. It is, in the project’s own words, cultural infrastructure designed from the inside out.

Construction is ongoing in Berekuso. Further details on opening dates and programming schedules are expected in the coming months.

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Arts and GH Heritage

The Art of Encounter: Finding History in Plastic Caps, Photographs and Passing Journeys

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There is a tendency to look for history in monuments, official records, and museum collections.

Yet some of the most revealing archives of a society can be found elsewhere: in fading family photographs, crowded taxi stations, discarded plastic bottle caps, and the fleeting encounters of everyday life.

That idea sits at the centre of Conditions/Encounters, a recent exhibition at Mix Design Gallery in Accra, where five Ghanaian artists turned familiar materials and experiences into reflections on memory, movement, and identity.

The exhibition suggests that contemporary Ghanaian life is constantly producing its own archive. Not the fixed archive of government documents, but a living one shaped by daily routines, personal recollections, and shared cultural experiences.

For artist Opoku Eric Asare, family photo albums from the 1990s become gateways into conversations about highlife music, nostalgia, and cultural continuity. His work reminds viewers that memory is never static; it shifts and reappears, carrying fragments of the past into the present.

Elsewhere, Emmanuel Afriyie Arthur transforms discarded plastic bottle caps into intricate visual compositions. In a country where conversations around waste management and environmental sustainability continue to grow, his work challenges audiences to reconsider what society throws away and what it chooses to value.

The rhythms of movement emerge through Kwabena Fordjour’s focus on Ghana’s transport culture. Taxi ranks and bus stations are presented not simply as transit points but as social spaces where relationships are formed, and communities intersect.

Together with the layered photographic narratives of Kwasi Darko and the fragmented figurative paintings of Dela Quarshie, the exhibition reveals a broader truth: the ordinary is never truly ordinary.

In contemporary Ghanaian art, everyday objects and experiences are increasingly becoming vessels of cultural memory.

They preserve stories, document change, and remind us that heritage is not only inherited from the past—it is also created in the present.

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