Sights and Sounds
Why Every Conscious Black Person Must Visit Ghana’s Cape Coast Castle
Cape Coast Castle is more than a historic landmark on Ghana’s southern coast. It is one of the most important sites of memory for the global Black community.
For many, stepping inside its sunlit courtyards and shadowed dungeons is not just a tour, but a reckoning. That was the experience of Alisha Adjei, a UK-based law student who says her visit to the site fundamentally reshaped how she views slavery, identity, and the responsibility of remembering.
Perched on a bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Coast Castle is visually stunning—its ancient whitewashed walls glowing against the sky, its battlements offering panoramic sea views. But the beauty ends at the threshold of its dungeons, where more than 70,000 enslaved Africans were held each year during the height of the transatlantic slave trade. For visitors like Adjei, that contrast is jarring—and unforgettable.
A local guide welcomed her with a quiet “Akwaaba,” then led her into the underground cells where African men and women were chained in darkness for weeks or months before being forced onto ships bound for the Americas. She described the cold air, the still-present stench of human suffering, and the deep grooves worn into the stone by shackles.
In the women’s dungeon, she learned how sexual violence was a routine part of captivity. In the punishment cell, she saw the iron ring where “rebellious” captives were tortured to death.
And yet above these horrors sat the living quarters of European officers—well-ventilated rooms with polished furniture, sea breezes, and even a private chapel where prayers were sung as people suffered directly below.
For Adjei, the most devastating moment came at the Door of No Return, the narrow wooden exit through which thousands departed their homeland forever—often renamed, dehumanized, and stripped of their identity before stepping into the blinding Pacific light and onto the waiting ships.
“Walking through that door and being able to return is the privilege that my ancestors were denied,” she reflected. “That is why visiting a place like this is both a gift and a responsibility.”
Cape Coast Castle is one of roughly 40 slave forts built along the former Gold Coast. Nearby Elmina Castle, built in 1482, is the oldest. Together, these structures held millions of Africans whose forced labor built wealth across Europe and the Americas. According to the Equal Justice Initiative, nearly 13 million Africans were kidnapped and trafficked between 1501 and 1867.
But Adjei emphasizes that Cape Coast’s story is not only one of pain. Ghana—home to more than 70 ethnic groups and over 80 languages—has a vibrant history that predates colonialism. From the artistry of Kente cloth dating back to the 12th century to the sophisticated political systems of the Ashanti and other kingdoms, West Africa’s cultural legacy is vast and enduring.
What struck her most was how little of this she learned in school.
“Black history was compressed into two weeks of lessons about the Slave Trade Triangle and a few abolitionists,” she said. “Cape Coast Castle taught me more in one day than I had learned in years.”
For this reason, she believes the castle is a vital destination for anyone in the Black diaspora seeking a deeper connection to their heritage. It is a place that forces visitors to confront both the brutality and the resilience that shape Black identity today. It challenges educators to teach more than trauma. And it underscores how unresolved injustices—from modern slavery to systemic racism—are rooted in the very history preserved within its walls.
Adjei left Ghana determined to pursue a career in law focused on human rights and curriculum reform.
“This is what Black history is about,” she said. “Its power lies in how it shapes who we are and who we choose to become.”
Cape Coast Castle is not an easy visit. But for many, it is a necessary one.
A child searching for their first picture book, a university student hunting for a prescribed textbook or a reader hoping to find their next favourite novel can all begin their search at the same place: EPP BookShop at Legon City Mall.
Located at 7 Lagoon Street, off Giffard Road, the Legon branch brings together books for different ages, interests and stages of learning.
Its appeal lies in the range of titles available, making it a useful stop for families preparing children for school, students pursuing higher education and readers looking beyond the classroom.
From a Small Accra Shop to a Growing Book Business
EPP Books began in 1991 as a modest bookshop in Accra, occupying a space of no more than 20 square metres.
Over the years, it grew into a chain with branches across the West African sub-region, expanding its reach beyond its original location.
That journey reflects the continuing need for accessible books in homes, schools and educational institutions.
For many learners, textbooks and supplementary readers are essential tools, while novels and self-help books offer opportunities for entertainment, personal growth and discovery.
Books for Different Stages of Life
At the Legon branch, the selection spans preschool materials, children’s readers, school curriculum books, secondary-school textbooks and university-level titles. Customers can also browse bestselling novels and books on personal development.
EPP BookShop serves both retail and wholesale customers, giving individual readers and organisations options for purchasing books. If a particular title is unavailable on the shelves, the shop can also arrange to order it.
For residents, students and visitors in the Legon area, the branch offers more than a place to buy reading materials. It provides a practical starting point for the search for knowledge, whether that begins with a child’s first schoolbook or a reader’s next literary adventure.
In a city where daily life can move at a relentless pace, finding a place to pause, unwind and feel refreshed can be a luxury in itself.
At Niobe Salon and Spa, located within Accra’s African Regent Hotel, beauty and relaxation come together in a contemporary setting designed to make personal care an enjoyable experience.
Niobe operates across five locations in Accra, Ghana’s bustling capital, with a philosophy built around the belief that cultivating a personal style should be rewarding, relaxing and fun. Its guiding idea, that “beauty is a feeling,” places the experience of self-care at the heart of its offering.
Facial Treatments for a Refreshed Look
At the African Regent Hotel branch, the treatment menu caters to guests seeking specialised skincare and facial care.
Options include Elemis facials, CACI lifting facials, Biotec Elemis facials, microdermabrasion and peel treatments, as well as Dr Murad facials.
These services offer visitors a range of choices, whether they are looking to refresh their complexion, explore targeted skincare treatments or set aside time for a personal wellness ritual.
The variety also makes the spa an appealing option for hotel guests and Accra residents looking to incorporate professional beauty care into their routines.
The hotel’s location adds to the appeal, offering a convenient setting for visitors who want to combine a beauty appointment with a stay or other activities in the city.
Making Time for Self-Care in Accra
Niobe Salon and Spa welcomes clients during the week and on Saturdays, with Sunday hours listed separately.
However, its published schedules contain some inconsistencies, so prospective visitors should confirm opening times before making a trip.
For travellers discovering Accra or residents seeking a dedicated beauty appointment, Niobe presents an opportunity to step away from everyday demands and make time for themselves.
At its African Regent Hotel location, the emphasis is on more than appearance: it is about making the experience of looking after oneself feel restorative, personal and rewarding.
For children, a good weekend can be as simple as racing a friend, climbing onto a play structure or waiting excitedly for the next ride.
At Calabo Playground in East Legon, those small moments are at the heart of the experience.
Located on Mensah Wood Street, Calabo is a soft play and playground designed for children aged 3 to 10, giving families a dedicated space where young children can stay active, socialise and enjoy unstructured play in a secure environment.
One of the attractions is the chance to climb into a canoe and race against friends—a playful competition that can quickly turn an ordinary afternoon into a hunt for bragging rights.
Children can also explore a range of indoor and outdoor equipment, with activities including a sliding pool and train rides.
The playground is particularly suited to Accra families looking for something different from spending weekends indoors. School holidays also bring an opportunity for children to spend more time playing, learning and interacting with others.
Beyond the equipment, Calabo offers a setting for children to build confidence and friendships through play. Parents can also organise parties, while homemade snacks add to the family-friendly experience.
Entry is priced from GH¢30 per hour, making it an accessible option for families seeking a few hours of entertainment without committing to a full-day outing. Calabo operates on weekends and during school holidays, so families should plan their visits around those opening periods.
For visitors to Accra travelling with young children, Calabo offers a glimpse of the city’s family leisure scene. For local parents, it is a simple invitation to let the children run, race, laugh and play.
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