Sights and Sounds
Nzulezu: The Ghanaian Village That Chose Water Over Land
Forget everything you know about typical travel destinations. Tucked away in Ghana’s Western Region, near the Ivorian border, lies a place that seems plucked from a dream—or perhaps a myth. This is Nzulezu, a village that doesn’t sit on land, but stands proudly on stilts above the calm waters of Lake Tadane.
The name itself tells the story. In the local Nzema tongue, Nzulezu translates simply to “surface of water”. But there is nothing simple about the lives of the roughly 500 people who call this place home. Reaching them is your first adventure. You cannot hail a taxi or walk a path here; the only road is a river.
The Journey In
Your voyage begins in the coastal town of Beyin. After a brief registration, you are handed a life jacket and guided into a wooden dugout canoe. For the next 45 minutes to an hour, you glide through the Amansuri wetland. This isn’t just a mode of transport; it is a safari through one of Ghana’s largest surviving swamp forests. The water is dark, mirroring the mangroves and the sky. You will share this waterway with kingfishers, herons, and if you are lucky, you might spot a crocodile slipping silently off a bank.
Then, the village emerges. At first, it looks like a line of matchstick houses floating on the horizon. As you draw closer, the reality sets in: an entire community—school, church, guesthouse, and homes—built entirely on wooden platforms above the water .
Why They Went to Water
According to the oral traditions passed down through generations, the ancestors of Nzulezu migrated from the ancient city of Walata in the Ghana Empire (modern-day Mauritania). Legend says they were guided to this spot by a snail, which is now revered as a spiritual totem. They built on the lake for protection and security, and today, that isolation has preserved a way of life that leaves visitors speechless.
Walking along the main wooden walkway—locally referred to as “Main Street”—you see life in fluid motion. Children paddle to school. Women wash cassava roots in the water, dropping the peelings into the lake to feed the fish. You might witness the rhythmic thump of a pestle in a mortar as someone prepares fufu, all while standing on a platform that gently gives way beneath your feet.
A Culture Preserved
The people of Nzulezu live in a delicate balance with nature, governed by strict taboos that protect their environment. Thursdays are sacred to the lake. On this day, no strenuous work is done on the water, allowing the ecosystem to rest.
Visiting here isn’t about checking a box. It is about witnessing human resilience. The residents farm on patches of land across the water, rowing out daily to tend their crops. They brew local gin (Akpeteshie) and fish to sustain themselves. For a small fee, locals will take you out on the lake to see how they cast their nets or to show you how they collect water for their daily use.
The Turtle Gift
Beyond the village itself, the Beyin visitor center offers another gift: the opportunity to participate in a sea turtle conservation project. From October through August, endangered sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. If you time your visit right, you can witness hatchlings making their frantic, adorable dash to the surf—a powerful symbol of life and continuity that mirrors the spirit of Nzulezu itself.
A Final Thought
We often travel to see monuments of stone and steel, but Nzulezu is a monument of humanity. It is a living, breathing testament to the idea that home is not just where the heart is, but where you build it—even if you have to build it on water.
As you canoe away and the village shrinks back into the horizon, you leave with more than photographs. You leave with the quiet realization that we spend too much time looking for solid ground, when sometimes, the most beautiful life is the one that learns to float.
A child searching for their first picture book, a university student hunting for a prescribed textbook or a reader hoping to find their next favourite novel can all begin their search at the same place: EPP BookShop at Legon City Mall.
Located at 7 Lagoon Street, off Giffard Road, the Legon branch brings together books for different ages, interests and stages of learning.
Its appeal lies in the range of titles available, making it a useful stop for families preparing children for school, students pursuing higher education and readers looking beyond the classroom.
From a Small Accra Shop to a Growing Book Business
EPP Books began in 1991 as a modest bookshop in Accra, occupying a space of no more than 20 square metres.
Over the years, it grew into a chain with branches across the West African sub-region, expanding its reach beyond its original location.
That journey reflects the continuing need for accessible books in homes, schools and educational institutions.
For many learners, textbooks and supplementary readers are essential tools, while novels and self-help books offer opportunities for entertainment, personal growth and discovery.
Books for Different Stages of Life
At the Legon branch, the selection spans preschool materials, children’s readers, school curriculum books, secondary-school textbooks and university-level titles. Customers can also browse bestselling novels and books on personal development.
EPP BookShop serves both retail and wholesale customers, giving individual readers and organisations options for purchasing books. If a particular title is unavailable on the shelves, the shop can also arrange to order it.
For residents, students and visitors in the Legon area, the branch offers more than a place to buy reading materials. It provides a practical starting point for the search for knowledge, whether that begins with a child’s first schoolbook or a reader’s next literary adventure.
In a city where daily life can move at a relentless pace, finding a place to pause, unwind and feel refreshed can be a luxury in itself.
At Niobe Salon and Spa, located within Accra’s African Regent Hotel, beauty and relaxation come together in a contemporary setting designed to make personal care an enjoyable experience.
Niobe operates across five locations in Accra, Ghana’s bustling capital, with a philosophy built around the belief that cultivating a personal style should be rewarding, relaxing and fun. Its guiding idea, that “beauty is a feeling,” places the experience of self-care at the heart of its offering.
Facial Treatments for a Refreshed Look
At the African Regent Hotel branch, the treatment menu caters to guests seeking specialised skincare and facial care.
Options include Elemis facials, CACI lifting facials, Biotec Elemis facials, microdermabrasion and peel treatments, as well as Dr Murad facials.
These services offer visitors a range of choices, whether they are looking to refresh their complexion, explore targeted skincare treatments or set aside time for a personal wellness ritual.
The variety also makes the spa an appealing option for hotel guests and Accra residents looking to incorporate professional beauty care into their routines.
The hotel’s location adds to the appeal, offering a convenient setting for visitors who want to combine a beauty appointment with a stay or other activities in the city.
Making Time for Self-Care in Accra
Niobe Salon and Spa welcomes clients during the week and on Saturdays, with Sunday hours listed separately.
However, its published schedules contain some inconsistencies, so prospective visitors should confirm opening times before making a trip.
For travellers discovering Accra or residents seeking a dedicated beauty appointment, Niobe presents an opportunity to step away from everyday demands and make time for themselves.
At its African Regent Hotel location, the emphasis is on more than appearance: it is about making the experience of looking after oneself feel restorative, personal and rewarding.
For children, a good weekend can be as simple as racing a friend, climbing onto a play structure or waiting excitedly for the next ride.
At Calabo Playground in East Legon, those small moments are at the heart of the experience.
Located on Mensah Wood Street, Calabo is a soft play and playground designed for children aged 3 to 10, giving families a dedicated space where young children can stay active, socialise and enjoy unstructured play in a secure environment.
One of the attractions is the chance to climb into a canoe and race against friends—a playful competition that can quickly turn an ordinary afternoon into a hunt for bragging rights.
Children can also explore a range of indoor and outdoor equipment, with activities including a sliding pool and train rides.
The playground is particularly suited to Accra families looking for something different from spending weekends indoors. School holidays also bring an opportunity for children to spend more time playing, learning and interacting with others.
Beyond the equipment, Calabo offers a setting for children to build confidence and friendships through play. Parents can also organise parties, while homemade snacks add to the family-friendly experience.
Entry is priced from GH¢30 per hour, making it an accessible option for families seeking a few hours of entertainment without committing to a full-day outing. Calabo operates on weekends and during school holidays, so families should plan their visits around those opening periods.
For visitors to Accra travelling with young children, Calabo offers a glimpse of the city’s family leisure scene. For local parents, it is a simple invitation to let the children run, race, laugh and play.
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