Fashion & Style
Ghana’s Kantamanto Market Fights to Rebuild After Fire as Fast-Fashion Waste Piles Up
Six weeks after a massive fire tore through Accra’s sprawling Kantamanto Market — one of the world’s largest hubs for secondhand clothing — thousands of traders are still struggling to get back on their feet.
The blaze, which killed two people and destroyed an estimated two-thirds of the market, wiped out the livelihoods of tens of thousands within hours.
This story is based on reporting by The Guardian.
Once packed with tightly lined stalls selling “obroni wawu” — “dead white person’s clothes,” as secondhand garments are known locally — Kantamanto now hums with the noise of reconstruction.
Aluminum roofs are back up, skeletal wooden structures are rising, but many vendors’ spaces remain empty, generating little to no income in a market that previously supported an estimated 30,000 workers.
For traders like Richard Kwaku Kwakye, who lost more than 100,000 cedis’ worth of clothing, rebuilding has been overwhelming.
“I couldn’t retrieve a pin,” he told The Guardian, describing how the fire reduced his inventory to ashes.

With his stall still unfinished, he has no place to store goods — and no income for his family.
The market’s crisis exposes a larger global problem: the relentless surge of fast-fashion waste. Ghana imported $121 million worth of used clothing in 2023 alone, much of it low-quality, discarded fashion from the UK, China, and the US. According to research cited by The Guardian, Kantamanto sends 26.5 tonnes of unsellable clothing to dumps every week. Some ends up in informal landfills around Accra before being washed out to sea, later returning as soggy heaps on city beaches.
The ecosystem around Kantamanto — from tailors to food sellers to kayayei porters — has also been hit hard. Many, like 18-year-old porter Aisha Mohammed, have seen their daily income plunge from about 50 cedis to as little as 10. Others have left the city entirely, unable to start over.
Relief efforts are underway. Local leaders and nonprofits, including the Or Foundation, are raising funds to support affected traders and plan long-term upgrades to prevent future disasters. But business remains painfully slow, and many vendors can’t afford to import new bales of clothing while the market rebuilds.
Despite the hardship, trucks continue to unload hundreds of bales of secondhand garments each week — a sign that Kantamanto’s future still hinges on the world’s fashion waste.
Fashion & Style
Inside the Unik Dress Showcase That Challenged Fashion Norms at Accra Fashion Week
When the lights cut across the runway at Accra Fashion Week, the room quieted as Côte d’Ivoire’s Unik Dress unveiled a collection that blurred the line between fashion presentation and performance.
Instead of following the traditional rhythm of menswear and womenswear, the brand introduced a tightly edited five-look showcase in which gender dissolved and garments spoke entirely through form, texture, and presence.
The collection leaned toward sculptural construction. Corseted bodices appeared alongside structured tunics and fluid tailoring, creating silhouettes that moved between softness and architectural strength. Metallic embroideries and laser-cut patterns caught the stage lighting, giving each piece a ceremonial glow.
Feather trims and lace insertions added motion as the models walked, transforming the garments into living installations rather than simple runway outfits.
What made the showcase stand apart was its restraint with cultural references. Rather than relying on familiar African print narratives, Unik Dress embedded identity in craftsmanship. The details—the intricate embellishments, layered fabrics, and precision tailoring—hinted at heritage without turning it into costume.
Gold finishes dominated sections of the collection, lending the pieces a couture richness, while darker palettes grounded the looks in contemporary elegance.
The unisex approach strengthened the message. Instead of dressing men and women differently, the garments allowed personality and attitude to shape the final impression.
On the runway, silhouettes shifted easily from masculine to delicate, revealing fashion as a language of expression rather than a set of categories.
At a time when West African fashion is expanding onto the global stage, Unik Dress delivered a confident statement: bold experimentation, meticulous craft, and a willingness to rethink how identity appears in clothing.
Fashion & Style
The Fit Formula: How One Style Rule Is Influencing Everyday Fashion
Fashion advice can often sound complicated—layers of trends, seasonal rules, and endless style experiments.
But sometimes the best style wisdom comes in a few simple lines. “Tight on baggy, yes. Baggy on tight, no. Tight on tight, yes. Baggy on baggy, yes.” It’s the kind of quick-fire fashion philosophy that feels almost like a rhythm—part rulebook, part street-style mantra.
At its core, the statement taps into one of the most fundamental principles of dressing: balance. In fashion circles from Accra to London, stylists often talk about silhouette before anything else.
The way clothing fits the body—whether structured, oversized, or body-hugging—can completely transform how an outfit reads.
The rule itself reflects a style logic familiar across contemporary African fashion scenes. Pairing a fitted top with oversized trousers can create contrast and movement, while fully tailored looks—“tight on tight”—project confidence and intention.
Meanwhile, oversized ensembles, the “baggy on baggy” look popularized by global streetwear, lean into comfort and attitude.
What doesn’t work as easily is the mismatch: baggy pieces layered over tighter ones in ways that disrupt the outfit’s proportions. For many stylists, that’s where the silhouette begins to feel visually heavy or unbalanced.
In cities like Accra, where fashion is increasingly shaped by street culture, music, and social media, these kinds of rules circulate quickly.
They’re repeated in styling conversations, shared in Instagram reels, and debated among young creatives experimenting with personal style.
Yet the appeal of this simple formula lies in its accessibility. You don’t need a designer wardrobe to apply it. Anyone with a pair of jeans, a shirt, and a sense of curiosity about how clothes fall on the body can test it.
In a fashion world that often overcomplicates things, sometimes style comes down to remembering one thing: fit changes everything.
Fashion & Style
Heritage in Hand: Why Hertunba’s Wooden Sculptures are the New Frontier of African Luxury
The digital fashion space moves at breakneck speed, but Nigerian powerhouse Hertunba just forced everyone to slow down and stare.
With the unveiling of its latest collection, Akạọrụ̄, the brand didn’t just showcase clothes; it debuted a series of hand-carved wooden handbags that have effectively set social media alight.
In an era of mass-produced “it-bags,” these sculptural objects serve as a defiant reminder that true luxury often breathes through the hands of an artisan rather than the gears of a machine.
The Akạọrụ̄ collection—a name that resonates with the depth of craftsmanship—positions these bags not as mere accessories, but as collectible artifacts.
Each piece features organic textures and architectural silhouettes that draw a direct line back to traditional African woodworking. When the video of the showcase hit the internet, the reaction was instantaneous.

Observers weren’t just looking at fashion; they were witnessing a collaboration between modern design and ancestral memory.
What makes this moment so significant for the global African style narrative is the shift away from western-centric materials.
By choosing raw wood and symbolic detailing, Hertunba’s creative lead bridges the gap between the runway and the workshop.
The bags provide a striking, earthy contrast to the collection’s bold silhouettes, proving that sustainability and heritage are more than just buzzwords—they are the foundation of a new design language.
Online communities, particularly across Reddit and Instagram, have hailed the work as “pure art.” This isn’t hyperbole.
In a world saturated with synthetic leathers and logo-heavy hardware, the tactile, unyielding nature of a carved wooden clutch feels radical. It challenges the wearer to carry a piece of history.
Hertunba is sending a clear message to the international market: African luxury is not a monolith of “vibrant prints.”
It is an evolving dialogue of texture, form, and collaborative respect. By elevating the status of the artisan to that of a co-creator, the brand ensures that as African fashion carves its path into the future, it carries the weight and wisdom of its past.
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